Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Monday, December 14, 2009
Friday, December 11, 2009
From Wednesday to Sunday of this week the parents of the family for which I nanny are in San Francisco with their youngest son. Thus, I am left with the two oldest boys. I now know what it's like to be a working, single parent with desires for something greater in life. This job has taught me that I definitely want children, that I will be an excellent father someday down the road, that children must be taught to use manners and behave, and that family time is of utmost importance. Also, George Karl of the Denver Nuggets and I agree that shaking a baby is not an option. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yanpWXl9kRg NEVER.
So, it's been mustache-freezing cold in Boulder for the past week or two, which means inside activities. When I haven't been running my daddy daycare or selling shoes, I've been training at Movement quite a bit for some winter climbing at Hueco tanks State Park. I'm excited to say the least. Well, hopefully the moon, stars, and galaxies align and I get to have some off days in the upcoming months.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Sunday, November 8, 2009
This means more time do more rewarding things like punting on Flagstaff Mtn. I have a terrible disease which causes me to think I can climb any boulder problem. Well, maybe this is a blessing in disguise about 5 years early, once all my ingrams and physicals abilities manifest themselves. There are 4 climbs I have chosen to do before the New Year. These are not the greatest, most beautiful, most attainable, or even ones that I like. Sometimes the only reason is because it's there. Actually, that's a lie...because it's close. Anyway the winners are Trice, Apochalypse, Cage Free, and Free Range. Maybe you know them; maybe you don't. Who cares about the grade, who cares about the name even. I have chosen them because they are essentially two climbs with traverses, which were added to the beginning to make them harder, to produce 4 lines. Sounds a little like the pre-Arkansas visit a month-and-a-half ago. So I tried Trice yesterday and got spanked for a slew of reasons, but that's whatever. Sometimes it takes a visit to realise what you're against. Hopefully, next time will be a different result. Thye reason for trying these particular climbs is mostly "because;" however, they are intended to the the final chapter of my 2009 climbing year. If half of these get completed, it will be the exclamation to a year of improvement, injury, training, and growth. The second if is, if I can continue this rampage of mental growth, training, understanding, and systematically attempting to eliminate weaknesses, I will easily be one the top climbers in the world. Some people are laughing right now, or at least raising eyebrows. If completing half of the first task wasn't arduous enough, deciding to throw another 12 months on top of it seems truly impossible.
I'm a firm supporter of believing. Seems like if I believe enough, then it happens. Well, I've been exercising that since I wasn't sure if I would make it through architecture school 4 years ago. Turns out, it almost always comes true and quicker than I hoped. Keep your ears to the streets for the next year. Who knows, I might not have kids anymore, climb impossible rocks, and be the King of England. Well, why not try.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
That's right, I got the dirty from Jason and he said among other news about two weeks ago, Morgan Gattis became the first woman from Arkansas to climb a v8. Crazy! Well, maybe not really to most people, but it pretty much blows my mind. Orbital Mechanics was the victim at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Jason said it was pretty much domination once the infallible beta was installed. Well again congrats Morgan, but it's time to climb a 9. Yep that's always been my attitude and I'm sticking to my guns.
Another thing you should stick to are your morals. Last week was a tough one, not so much for me but the people around me made it difficult. Husbands beating wives makes me realize things I will never do and things I don't want to condone. Well, can't fully support thos ideals until I have a real job. Otherwise, I would be actively making myself homeless. Dumb.
Well, the Yankees made it again. Hope they can pull out a win this year. If not, you can be sure they will buy better players, which I love.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Saw a soccer match last night. It wasn't much of a match, but that's how it goes when everyone in Denver gets dominated by the same team every fall. I was rooting for some of my favorite people. A cold night for soccer, but wonderful nonetheless. A perfect 4 hours of my life.
Do you ever get the feeling that everything is about to change and, when I say everything, I mean everything in life. Maybe it's the fall air, maybe because each day is coming closer to my favorite time if the year, or maybe everything is about to change because I want it to happen. I really do hope all the changes are wonderful and exciting ones. Since I came off the road five and half months ago, I have been participating in a life that I am probably displeased with 75% of the time. I sleep 10-12 hours a day because that's what makes time pass. This is not me and I really do hope for many things to be different than how they currently exist.
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Well, at the moment I'm sick. Not sure what it is, but I've been on bedroom lock down for over two days. It feels like prison, but if that's what it takes to get better then fine. Yesterday I sent off for a revision of my portfolio. Hopefully this one is perfect. Also, I've been watching mad amounts of movies. Yesterday, it was The Breakup, Hell Boy 2, Mummy 2, Missed Call, Forgetting Sarah Marshall, and some love movie which I can't remember at the moment. Today I've seen Vertical Limit, The Sting, and Kit Kittredge. None that were that great, but I actually shed a tear in Kit Kittredge. I couldn't believe it either. Well, I am caring for kids these days and getting a bit older, so the story goes. Hopefully I will be well soon and able to take advantage of the wonderful fall weather in Boulder.
"It's about to get really good before it gets bad." Dave Graham
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Sarah on Orb Weaver
Lauren and Christine still excited about climbing after 14hrs of the comp.
Thursday, October 1, 2009
Sunset on the drive back to the Ranch.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Fall was a week away from being in full effect yesterday, but it was almost perfect nonetheless. I was unable to try any of the projects I had made note of when I visited two weeks ago, but myself and quite a few others came up with some nice sends. Climbing with such a large group of people is interesting. Taking quality pictures is almost impossible, which is a shame since there are some many people to photograph. On the upside, there are tons of people giving support and a rediculous amount of crash pads. I really enjoy climbing with all of these people and I wish it could happen once every weekend. Everyone always seems to get a lot accomplished on the days when we have a massive squad of people. Employee of the day was up for grabs as Anne Tedesco did the Gill Problem, which no one else could do, and Said Parirohk, who gave around 20 attempts on the Information Super Highway dyno and eventually stuck it! Dan Michels got viedo of me doing this dyno, so hopefully you can see how it goes.
Chunk up the Deuce
Chunk and Loved by Few
Jeff's Prow and Fred's Roof
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
"Motivation; what is dat all about?" - Ali G
While having proper equipment, training your muscles, and eating the right food is important, none of those come close to the mental aspect of climbing. Plain and simple, mental game gets it done. Motivation can make a climb feel effortless and impossible without it. Of all the things to train, this should be at the top of everyone's list. Prime examples of world class climbing minds would be people pushing the limits... Fred Nicole, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, and Kevin Jorgeson.
Several years ago I was studying architecture in Rome, Italy, and I was in the middle of climbing withdrawals. I had just taken my first trip to Horsepens 40 as opposed to going ice climbing In Ouray, CO. Dying to climb and having nothing but my shoes and a small bag of chalk drove me crazy. I was always thinking about it; grabbing everything as if I were in the middle of a climb. The first visit to a gym there took 2 hours by train and foot. I was utterly lost, but have never been more found once I arrived. Ecole Verticale was a glorious place; however, I only visited twice more. The next gym turned out to be my svaing grace and ultimately one of the major reasons my climbing turned from a hobby to a career.
Jollypower as it was called, was dirty and lacked class even though it was at a sport club. What it lacked in class and technology, it made up for it with motivated people. I climbed once a week with at least 12 men and several girls who could all comfortably complete v8s. Some of these men were nearly 60. I have never before or since met so many people that were so motivated. The ring leader of this place was a man by the name of Alesandro Lamberti, affectionately called Jollypower. At 24 he climbed his first 13.d. At 30 his first 14.b. At 37 his first 14.d. He was 44 when I met him and he is still the stongest and most graceful climber I have ever seen. This is not a man who was blessed for climbing, though he had been climbing for almost 35 years when I met him. Here was a man who trained 'til he was blue in the face, until his muscle failure was so evident that he could not move another inch. I bought his book, thanked him, and still hope I will see him again.
His book is my Bible for training, but it is unfortunately in Italian. Among other things, over 40 pages of the book is dedicated to the metal aspect of the sport of climbing. There are lots of quotes from Bruce Lee, Confuscious, and Shakespeare. One of the Bruce Lee quotes goes as follows, "the mind is the primary obstacle in any physical action." Basically, if you believe you can do it, wether you actually can, it will place the verdict solely in the physical realm. Your mind will either allow you to do the climb or you will not. If you consider all the climbers in the world past and present, you would easily see the strongest minds a top the list and a gradual drop of in acuity as the level of the climber decreased. A great example is Fred Nicole. He has always been about 10 years ahead of his time. He put up the world's first v13 and v14 when people believed Midnight Lightning to be a serious standard and v10 was an extremely high level professional. The fact that he believed and believes that almost no stretch of rock can stop him is dumbfounding. His mind is by far his most impressive asset, and let us not forget his fingers and overall physcial fitness are "special abilities," as he has been seen doing one-arm pullups on a single pinky finger. So next time you think about climbing something remember what Bruce says and keep your mind as open, as smart, and as strong as Fred Nicole's.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Second, I love training myself and coaching others. I wish I could do this as a full time job. Everyone who let me observe them and then train them would eventually become whatever their heart's desired. Anyway, I wish I coached people. Maybe I should write a book or something instead.
Lastly and mostly what I wanted to delve further into is the subject of special abilities of a physical nature or assets as it relates to climbing. This is referring to a strength that is so far above average that it is unique or would be desired by anyone who knew of it. Several examples would be the open hand strength of Jimmy Webb or Dave Graham, the timing of Tyler Landman, the total muscular fitness of Alex Puccio, the lock-offs of Iker Pou, the close-handed talents of James Litz, or Dave Graham's understanding of compression climbing. These people possess unmatched abilities. Perhaps they began with more of this than everyone else, but more likely they have always been pushing something that comes naturally or something preferred. These are just a few examples, but having such a highly developed ability can make one a world class climber. Some people will never be close to such an ability, while others like Dave Graham, Fred Nicole, or Chris Sharma may have multiple ones. However, anyone can train for such a goal, and with the right choices can vastly and quickly improve whatever is desired. Obviously the most arduous would be improving upon weaknesses. One must be committed in making their weakness of paramount importance almost to the point of obsession. This type of training is the least fun and takes the longest, but will yield the most return. For example, what is Tommy Caldwell's weakness? While he has no special climbing talent that would be higher than the 90th percentile, he has virtually no weaknesses other than missin a portion of a digit, which can be argued as a special ability in disguise. Well, that's enough with the training for one post.
For the past month I have been training at Movement. Here's how it goes. The routes are great, but I don't have a partner. I climb on the auto belay and do 10 routes in 30 minutes anywhere from 5.8-5.12. Dumb, but it gets up the endurance. The boulder problems are absolutely terrible. Poor setting, climbing that doesn't translate outside, and always awkward. So none of that really. The system board is alright, but too many good holds. I train powerful square climbing on this board. Also a lot of sloper training and always with lockoffs on everything. I also spend a lot of time using feet that don't feel the best. Not necessarily bad feet, just 6 inches from where I would like. The training also consists of tons of stretching because of my inflexibility and lots of lifting to develop world class assets and improve upon weak areas. Finally, cardio whenever possible. Training is everyday between 2-5 hours sometimes twice a day. Movement is clean and the people are friendly, not to mention a well designed space from Jim Logan (the architect). This keeps the morale high. Not unlike a friend who I spent part of this last year, I have decided not to seriously climb in the gym more than 2 or 3 times a month, only training. I'm always looking for answers and this could be one.
Friday, September 11, 2009
My brother is claiming to be the most motivated climber in Arkansas. I would've never guessed this for him, but breaking a collar bone and tearing a meniscus within the span of six months can change a person's mindset. I was informed last weekend that he nearly sent Fred's Roof v11 in his first session. Having done every move, he is in the agonizing world of trying to finish the climb from the beginning. Well, maybe there will be good news soon.
As a new and very likely the most frequently attending member of Movement Climbing Gym in Boulder, I had the privilege of watching the gym put up a rope testpiece. Mike Moelter claimed it was somewhere in the 14.c/d range after some of the moves were "watered down a bit." Originally, Somewhere near 15.a/b, I watched a v12 boulderer and a competent route climber struggle to do more than two consecutive movements. Nasty to say the least. At 42' the wall isn't that tall, but 30 degrees overhung and every move being from v8-12 with virtually no rests, it packs a mean punch.
Lastly, my portfolio came in the mail. Misprinted because of the company's web layout and several color mishaps will have me printing another 40 dollar copy. Still, I was quite pleased and thought it was pretty sweet to be able to quantify so much work and time spent over the last 6 years.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Center Spooge, Fontaine Red, likely the first at the grade
Hannibal, Fontaine Red
Buddy, Fontaine Red
Ab Lounge/Her Majesty, Invasion
Trackman, Stack Rock
Daddy Long Legs, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Glass Bowl, HCR
Flash Gordon, HCR
Dark Elf, HCR (broken)
Swollen Knuckles, HCR
Smooth Operator, HCR
A Perfect 10/ Power of Silence, Springdale Lutz Rd.
House of Magic, Area 74
Shapeshifter Direct, Area 74
From Darkness Comes Light, Area 74
High Maintenance, Area 74
Superfly, Lincoln Lake
Crimpit's Tea Room, Goat Farm
Wyatt Earp, Petit Jean
Fred's Roof, Fontaine Red
Broken Earth, Fontaine Red
Stackin Paper, Stack Rock
52 to 1 Cardeck, HCR
Bloody Knuckles, HCR
Shadow Jumper, HCR
Starburst Assis, HCR
Double Live Gonzo, Area 74
The Oracle, Area 74, (broken)
Thug Jump, Area 74
Thug Life, Area 74
Midnight Frightening, DeSoto
King Lion, Sam's Throne
One Inch Pinch, Fontaine Red
The Zone, HCR
The Total Package, HCR
The Dirty 30, HCR
The Dirty 40, HCR
Southern Lean, HCR
Release the Squirrels, Split Rocks
Zen's Garden, Desoto
Chunk up the Deuce, Fontaine Red
PCP Fontaine Red
All Screwed Up, HCR
Loved By Few Hated By Many, HCR
Welcome to Fight Club, HCR
Forever Botany, Split Rocks
Witness the Fitness, Hwy23, (broken)
Woodgrain Grippin, Hwy 23
Lost in the Hood, Invasion
These are all the double digit established boulders in the state. There may be more at lesser know locations around Russellville, but this is the list thus far. There are also many undone projects which would make the list, but I will stick to the established for now. If anyone has more current information please let me know, as I think such a list is useful documentation.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Guess this means my architecture portfolio is finished for the time being. One calender year of somewhat intense work yielded 65 pages of architecture and 75 pages of photography in a nine by seven format. So now is this strange aformentioned time. Does this mean I rekindle my love of architecture? Does my architecture take a cue from my photography? Does this open the door for me to sell work? I am lost for the moment, but maybe the answers are already upon me. Perhaps they have always been there and are a gentle suggestion of a persuasion to my will. In jest I hope this persuasion results in the form of a Flava Flav enormous golden clock chain. Actually, I don't care any which way other than "to do/produce cool shit." That is all.
On a final and unrelated note, except for the title, here is a comical dance that goes with a rap song unaffiliated with a movie mention earlier.
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Looks like a Rex Quando wanna-be to mehttp://bp1.blogger.com/_Gkee5Q_0UWk/R03tXrSgq3I/AAAAAAAAAOg/rRVR846bpKA/s1600-h/Rex%20Kwon%20Do%201.jpg
Sometimes you only want to show half of your torso.
Taking your pants off is the only way to cure a fall on your tailbone.
Jumping in Lake Haiyaha is always a good decision no matter how cold.
Monday, August 3, 2009
Sunday, August 2, 2009
I used to dream at night so much that I awoke exhausted in the morning. Like most dreams they were rarely congruous as the events and people were a strange amalgamation. Sometimes they were so vivid I could barely distinguish between conscious and unconscious occurrences. Almost every dream was about climbing and never about anything I was or am capable of climbing. Visions and futures revealed nightly as eyelids fell and my head floated.
Here are some of the recent things I have been dreaming about.
Nuthin but Sunshine
No super quality videos for this bad boy, but I find myself looking at this stretch of rock every time I come to the Park. History, difficulty, and stature. This one has it all.
And of course randomness in Arkansas.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
picked and pitted cherries for 4 hours; never again.
practiced baseball for an hour, which was about 2 hours too little.
slept until 10.
swallowed complaints and instead tried to make others happy.
heard two cyclists talking about their new careers.
played barefooted on a slip-n'-slide in the backyard.
spent several hours reliving the past and dreaming of the future.
gave love to a child.
This reads like a jack of all trades, parent, or someone who experiences variety on a daily basis. However, these are not my desires; they are my choices. Tomorrow will be another day in the Park. Another day of climbing, hiking, and driving. Another day to escape, to explore, and to investigate. I wish I were going to Utah for the next 4 days to relive the past and establish a future, but my current choices do not allow for such a trip. Someday the eight things that happened today will manifest themselves into something completely wonderful. Until then, it's cherries for me.
Friday, July 17, 2009
Tommy's Arete in lower Choas. A must-do if you can climb the grade.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Photos of Tommy's Other Arete courtesy of Said Parirokh. A masterpiece of a line from Tommy Caldwell, whose father suggested that the would be bouldering in the park over a decade ago.
Well, it's is Monday and I'm off. Instead of going to the Park again today, since rainw as forecast, I'm working on a set of architectural drawings for a friend's parent's new home. It's been a while since I've drawn on the computer, but it's relaxing in a strange way. Like putting on an old pair of jeans for an early fall football game. Good stuff.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Monday, June 29, 2009
A pine needle path in Yosemite, which kept me wandering for 15 miles one day. Just enough.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
1. Sunrises and sunsets are a beautiful thing to see alone or to share
2. Outdoor climbing will commence once again with two ankles
3. Michael Jackson died = drastic change in music for the summer
4. I'm going to Bon Iver in Denver
Friday, May 15, 2009
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Broken Earth follows crimps up the middle of the picture.
Monday, February 16, 2009
Messy Bear v8 starts on the low slope on the left side of the picture and moves up the faint crack and then right for a move to topout. High Maintenance v10 start on a pinch to the right of the tree in the picture and traverses left into the feature that is heavily chalked. The problem has quality movement, but is unfortunately north-facing. It is almost always wet, sandy, or dirty in general, but the rock cleans well. The grade may change with more ascents and depending on its evolving condition. If you find yourself running out of problems, wanting to topout, or wanting to clean something to warm-up, this climb is an excellent choice.
Dreams and Realities v6 begins on a right facing sidepull and a left hand crimp just to the left of the rock in the bottom right of the picture. It makes one move left and then backwards to the right facing jug before topping out left of the tree.
Self service begins 15 feet to the left of Dreams and Realities and as around a v7. It begins right hand in the heavily chalked slot and left hand on a crimp. It makes one large move to a jug straight out and then finishes straight over the lip. Both of these moderates previously had chalk on some of the holds, so I am probably not the first to do them. However, they are not in the guide book, so this is what I am calling them. Both are nice problems for their difficulty.
Scott Fitzgerald on From Darkness Comes Light v10 in the fall of '07 courtesy of Matt Hagler.
So, there has been some serious, recent, throw down fistacuffs domination at Lutz Rd. (Springdale). Last Thursday Jeremy and I visited to get some exercise. We both quickly put away an old problem which lies just left of the Muffin and climbs into it. It doesn't have a name, but this one might stick; Squealing for Butter v8. It was a nice little roof climb. Next I tried to complete A Perfect 10 v10, but could only muster a little progress and threw in the towel after a few goes. Jeremy, on the other hand, was trying a direct line out of that problem on small crimps up the face and underclings in the roof. Super cool-looking movement and fairly tough as he was suggesting somwhere in the 12 or 13 range. Last, we both repeated the Dirt Merchant Direct Dyno v10. I had "established" it a year an a half ago and wanted to see what it felt like again. Jeremy clapped it up and I was not too far behind him. The next day Jason came out for a similar workout and followed suit on all those mentioned. He also did Billy Ray Cyrus v7 to finish off the day. Nice work on the first 10 son!
JTW's project starts on the lowest right chalked hold, traverse left several moves and then heads out the blank section. Burly and super technical.
Jason making the third move on Squealing for Butter v8.
Jason in the middle of the long twisting lock-offs of Billy Ray Cyrus v7.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Monday, February 9, 2009
Side note #1: Simon received a haircut yesterday. He is either an eight pound lion or wearing tights and a cropped fur coat. Hilarious and spot on. Pictures soon on here or http://jeremytyler.blogspot.com/
Side note #2: I have a handlebar mustache and I operated a chainsaw yesterday. Put two checks for me in the badass column.
Friday, February 6, 2009
The Knuckles BoulderThe last hour of the day was spent next door at Ty Landman's Typhoon v11. Jeremy had already done it and I was still working on the stand, coming in around v10 and known as Harricane by Harry Robertson. I finally stuck the single move, but could not do the sit start. Having spent around 125 tries on the stand start over several seasons, I'm excited to have done the move and enjoy the contentment from not feeling a desire to do the sit start.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Monday we went to DeSoto. Jeremy was going to clean a project and attempt some of the higher moves on top-rope, and I was going to try to do anything. Turns out Jeremy's project is a lot harder than he thought; maybe he will find enough in himself to claw to the top of it before he leaves the state. I started the day off by warming up on a classic problem called Zen in a Blender v6. I would strongly reccomend this one to anyone who enjoys climbs at this grade or is trying to do a climb around this grade. After getting warm I proceeded plow through problems. I'm unaware what the names of some of these problems are, but I managed to luck out and do Buddha v10. I was informed recently that this was an old Micah Scott problem. It is a one move problem for the grade on a 40 degree wall with essentially no feet. After several dozen attempts at getting off the ground, I succeeded and realized the climb. Success by way of perserverance is one of the principals reasons why I continue to climb. I love that feeling.
Today, I made a quick trip to Lake Lincoln to take a look at a possible unrepeated Barret Tilley problem known as Superfly v10. I did the problem with several bumps, but it is a two move problem for the most part. After guaging the first long move and trying each move in isolation, I put the whole problem together in a few hours of work. I wish the problem would've gone a bit quicker, but the cold weather made for a nice session.
Friday, January 30, 2009
So now we wait for ice to melt and rocks to dry. In the mean time I've been thinking what I'm going to do with my life after this trip. Who knows, ugh. Possibly the answer is in a long visit up the west coast to Squamish in early spring.
Monday, January 26, 2009
JTW blowing minds and demoralizing others on Midnight Frightening v11
Upward Warrior v8 starts in a standing position with sidepulls bear-hugging the arete. It gains the sloper at 10' and tops out slightly left.
While Jeremy was gone, I proceeded to do the likely second ascent of an old Blake Strickland problem in the north Idahos called Isolation v8. Although it is an eliminate, it climbs some amazing sandstone slopers, so I was pleased to finally do it. Next I met up with the only other people at the Ranch that day who also happened to be friends. I had the chance to witness what is very likely the first native female Arkansan send a v7 in Razor's Edge. Morgan Gattis has been holding her own with the boys for years, and she definitely seeing dividends these days. Hopefully her climbing will continue to flourish. Across from Razor's Edge is another Blake Strickland problem know as Dark Elf v10. This was one of the original four v10s at the Ranch before outside developers came. Unfortunately, I was told by Blake that the problem never saw a second ascent as it broke shortly after his first ascent and is probably unrepeatable in its current state. After 30 minutes on Sunday, I had worked out all the moves except for one, which still illudes me. In this time Morgan sent her project and Jeremy reappeared, so I decided to call it quits on that rig until a warmer day.
Last stop for the day was yet another Strickland problem. Come O Long v8, was established a little over a year ago in the south Idahos directly behind Even Dirtier. It is an excellent short face climb with a slightly hazardous fall potential. Blake chose to top it out by traversing left and coming back right; however, I thought the correct line should be straight up. I nearly flashed the problem, but neglected to fully consider the topout. Short work yielded my second Strickland problem of the day and another possible second ascent. I was happy to have done this one, especially since I believe a sit start will be possible on this one. By that time it was so cold one could barely stay warm even while climbing in a down jacket, so we called it quits. All in all it was a good day. A lot of climbing by myself and "alone time", but that's what this roadtrip was predicated on anyway.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Next it was back across the street to Shapeshifter Direct. I had established this direct start in the fall of '07 to the existing Shapeshifter, which is a traverse, and had suggested the grade of v10. While the traverse is a good problem in its own right, I felt the direct version to be the true line and the first of many difficult roof problems to come from 74. A descent flash attempt yielded another successful climb in a few more trys for Mr. JTW.
Two down, two to go. Next was the Battle of the Bulge project. When Scott Fitzgerald published the guidebook to Area 74 through Drtopo.com, he believed this climb to be the most difficult, suggesting a possible grade of v12 even though no one had climbed it. The problem is an instant classic if you're able to pull off the ground, and it is some of the friendliest sandstone in the Ozarks. The bottom half is slightly overhung and trends right to left up a steep flake. This section is probably v1 to an undercling. From here the problem get progressively more technical and difficult including drop knees, flags, a half inch deep mono, a grossly thin sloping crimp, and a stab for the finish. I honestly doubt anyone repeats this line for a very long time, as it will take someone with some special and finely honed fortes and some serious determination. Jeremy decided to name it Double Live Gonzo (v11). Well done sir!
While Double Live Gonzo was the crowning moment, it would not be JTW's last tune of the day. In twilight we walked to the Eastern most end of 74 in hopes that Jeremy had one last climb in him. A month and a half ago I had opened the former Bad Girls project in the corridor, calling it The House of Magic (v10). With another second ascent looming, I gave the play-by-play in hopes that it would get flashed. A good effort was had, but no such luck. Not a mintue before complete darkness, Jeremy sent it next go. We gathered our belongings and lumbered to the car, excited about all that was accomplished but equally exhausted.
Tomorrow we are travelling to a nearby magical wonderland known as the Kingdom of Caring. We have both climbed several days in a row, but there is a streak to be kept alive and domination will most likely ensue.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Ryan Sewell's Broken Earth climbs what Ryan claims are "some of the smallest crimps he can hold." Agreed.
Sunday, January 18, 2009
From Darkness Comes Light climbs out the roof ten feet left of the crack in the face.
The last stop of the day was Split Rocks. This is perhaps one of the most wonderful places in all of Arkansas. To date, there are two established boulder problems, about half a dozen project boulder problems, one bolted project sport climb, and a project trad line. With such few lines and few people knowing its location, Split Rocks remains in obscurity, which is probably for the best. Since I am unaware of the current state of access for this land, I would suggest not visiting unless you can do whatever it is that you desire to do in a few hours. I digress. Anyway, Dave Graham put up a highball pocketed testpiece in February of '08 known as Release the Squirrels, which premiered in the movie Dosage 5. It climbs a 40' face of impeccable white standstone. After 30 minutes of work, Jeremy had made it through the low crux and was in the middle of the 30' slab topout. Needless to say, he was a happy camper once he was finally on top.
Jeremy sticking the first pocket on Release the Squirrels (v12).
Jeremy battling the redpoint crux of Release the Squirrels.