Friday, July 17, 2009

Kicking and Screaming

Another big day happened at the Park yesterday, and was only shortened due to swarming mosquitos. Dan Michels, Anne, and I went to lower Chaos. We arrived in the parking lot around 10 only to find three others with a similar mindset. So three became six and we headed up the canyon. Anne warmed up with a send of Autobot, and I followed suit with the low start to it. Both great climbs. Unfortunately Dan was off to a bit of a slow start, having forgotten his shoes and chalk. No worries. Our new friends gladly contributed in the needed departments and Dan warmed up with a quick send of the Fat Lady Stand. Now technically this really isn't a problem, but so many people are doing it, that it's becomming something of a must do in the area.

So six split back into three as the other half went further up the trail. Meanwhile, Dan proceeded over to flash Taurus or do it on his second try. Amazingly fast considering he was using shoes that didn't fit. Then it was over to Tommy's Arete. Now I had sworn it off for two years. Supposedly saving it for only one try. Mostly, it was a moderate climb in difficulty and a satchel full of moves. So by then we had run into friends Carry And Kell from Boulder and the forces were strong once more. I managed to have a foot slip off and take two tries with Dan being shortly behind on the send train. Carry had a repeat for a warmup and Anne posed for pictures. Gracias.
Lastly, it was back to Autobot. I am intrigued by problems with less moves than can be counted on one hand with loads of power and nuances to each move and hold. That said, I has always enjoyed the short roof behind Mikala. I sent, saw that it was grade 7B+, and decided to give it a name; as all climbs should have names. Carry was heartbreakingly close on more than one try. Afterwards I had convinced Anne to try Wyoming Chinese, an arete on the far right of the same face as Mikala. It is a standing start, four move problem with an intense terraced landing, thin holds and committing moves. We both complete the problem in less than ten attempts between us. I screamed on three of the moves and started celebrating before I had even done all the moves. People claimed to have heard me several miles up the canyon. Even Chris Sharma and Michael Jackson would be proud of a scream of that magnitude.

Anne working on the Marble

Tommy's Arete in lower Choas. A must-do if you can climb the grade.

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