Finally! My climbing life has blossomed. My brother, Jason (or John if you prefer), sent me Keith Bradbury's (unclesomebody.com) video of him and Ty Landman crushing in the magical forest of Fontainebleau. My climbing received a Ronnie Coleman-sized shot in the arm after I watched the film 8 times in two days and back to back the first time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWubJ5OrmjE
This is going to sound stupid of me, but I will try to explain. The film is not state-of-the-art, but it does feature a place which I would love to visit. This is the first and only extended piece of footage that I've seen of the "Forest," as it's called. I am fascinated by how people imagine or perceive things and how this changes upon the initial interaction and subsequent ones. Absolutely fascinating! Anyway, that's another post. The point is, this movie allowed my mind the freedom to inform my body. I believe the mind is the strongest/weakest muscle in climbing; depending on who you are. If the mind and the body operate seemlessly, then the possibilites are endless. I have already experienced this new connection and my eyes are wide with eyebrows raised. Michael Jordan, Ted Williams, Usain Bolt, and Michael Phelps have all performed under a state of hyper awareness. When the mind and body can understand quickly enough to slow down reality, reaction times plummet and the realm of possible becomes a suggestion. Most people would call it " the zone." Jordan would say the basket felt as big as the ocean and Williams would confess that it looked like a beach ball en route to home plate. However, to put it universally, hyper awareness during performance feels effortless and is the epitome of beauty.
By the time I write again, I'll have probably watched it twice as much and may have learned to levitate.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Friday, February 12, 2010
Photos
A close friend of mine (gregmionske.com) is taking a journalism class at the moment which allows him acess to a wide variety of professional level Nikon lens and cameras. This is perfect for Greg, as he is interning for the Fort Collins Colorodoan and inherently the rest of the Associated Press since his photos are so good. He covers the athlete of the week for high school athletics, general sporting events, and random local assignments. Needless to say, he's taking advantage of all the new equipment at his disposal. Here are some links to some of his online galleries for the paper and a few shots from our trip to Eldorado Canyon yesterday.
Someone had to be the stand-in while learning how to use a flash.
Someone had to be the stand-in while learning how to use a flash.Thursday, January 28, 2010
Patience
What does this word mean and why is it so hard to achieve? Wow! Tough questions to answer and even harder to put into action; however, sometimes the best action is none at all. Waiting happens to be exactly what it means to be patient. Sleeping, marinating, ignoring, and diverting attention are all forms of waiting, though discipline serves as the best solution to the "waiting game." As it turns out, everyone is always waiting for something or someone: buses, food, loved ones, or even people to hurry. Fortunately, a desire is granted each time you are done waiting. When put that way, it sounds as if the "game" is little more than a microwave dinner. Well, sometimes it can be that simple. Though sometimes waiting can be loaded with strife, anxiety, and despair.
So when you first realize that you will no longer be waiting and your desire is a reality, what do you do? Elation has many different forms. Enough ranting. I am finished with waiting, at least for this year, and I am smiling from ear to ear.
So when you first realize that you will no longer be waiting and your desire is a reality, what do you do? Elation has many different forms. Enough ranting. I am finished with waiting, at least for this year, and I am smiling from ear to ear.
"a dream came to me silently in the night..."
Sunday, January 17, 2010
The Last Lecture
Randy Pausch has a wonderful story to tell. I just read his book and can honestly say that it's the first book I haven't been able to put down since The Little Prince. Touching, inspiring, and encouraging. To live a life in-line with this book's message would certainly not be one wasted. This is an adendum to my New Year's resolutions.
On an unrelated note, here's a line from a favourtie song of mine.
"Then the snow started falling. We were stuck out in your car. You were rubbing both my hands, chewing on a candy bar. You said, "Ain't this just like the present to be showing up like this." As a moon waned to crescent we started to kiss... and I said I know it well.
On an unrelated note, here's a line from a favourtie song of mine.
"Then the snow started falling. We were stuck out in your car. You were rubbing both my hands, chewing on a candy bar. You said, "Ain't this just like the present to be showing up like this." As a moon waned to crescent we started to kiss... and I said I know it well.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
First Day of School
Unfortunately I am no longer in school, as I have graduated. So today was another day and not one loaded with firsts. The update since the last post goes like this in an truncated fashion. Drive all night to El Paso. Touch but don't climb. Go to the emergency room because I'm dying, or so I think. Parent come to the hospital on Christmas. Have surgery. Drive back to Denver and stay with them in a hotel for a week to recover. Spend time with friends. Quit being a nanny. Go back to selling shoes full-time. Begin climbing again. Move out. Move in. First day of class, but no more school.
Now, a moment for some New Year's Resolutions, as they are much needed and should finally be documented in an attempt to force adherence.
1. I've heard this from several people already, but drink more water. This especially applies to me as it relates to my surgery.
4. Get a new job.
5. Take 3 pictures that I completely love.
6. Climb something that would impress me.
7. Climb 8B and not v13, because it sounds wonderful that way.
8. Sell out for someone I love.
9. Allow myself to be comfortable with commitment.
Now, a moment for some New Year's Resolutions, as they are much needed and should finally be documented in an attempt to force adherence.
1. I've heard this from several people already, but drink more water. This especially applies to me as it relates to my surgery.
4. Get a new job.
5. Take 3 pictures that I completely love.
6. Climb something that would impress me.
7. Climb 8B and not v13, because it sounds wonderful that way.
8. Sell out for someone I love.
9. Allow myself to be comfortable with commitment.
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Winter Break
Since I began my nannying job in May of this past year, I have yet to take a single day of vacation. Therefore, a trip to Hueco Tanks for some climbing over the next week is much overdue. Everyone will be there, and I do mean everyone. Well not really, because not everyone really can and the brother won't be there. Anyway, lots of people from Colorado and lots who are in the friend department. I cannot wait to roadtrip again. I love it so much, even if it's for a week. Hueco was my first trip that lasted more than 2 days, and 2 years ago was the last time I was really there. This means I will be envoking the Graduation album from Kanye as the background music to my life over the next week. Lots to see, an overwhelming amount to climb, not enough skin or muscles to get it all done, and literally thousands of photos to take. It's going to be a great trip. I'll be back in a week. Hopefully there will be photos to post, stories to tell, and some finely knitted garmets to display.
Monday, December 14, 2009
Sacrifices
The past week of being a single parent with two kids got me thinking. A lot. At the end of 5 days I felt the, overwhelming at times, burden of a responsibility which urges me to give "my kids" the best. This is not so much concerned with worldly things as it is time, love, and attention. This week has made me feel proud, exhausted, lonely, frustrated, accomplished, caged, and elated. The life of a parent seems to be a true rollercoaster. One that I am not ready to truly ride. This also brings up the question of sacrificing my priorities. A hard pill to swallow on the idea and even more difficult to commit to doing. Seems, for the time being, I am still in the same boat. Lots of thoughts and so little time to express and discuss.
Friday, December 11, 2009
Fatherhood
As a public service announcement to those who stumble across this blog, do not have sex until you are ready to be a parent. Being a parent when you are not truly ready to give up your desires, freedom, hobbies, and social life blows. Your children's joys become your joy. So before I go any further, I would like to thank my parents. They were perfect in every sense of the word when it came to my upbringing. Thankyou for all your sacrifices and all the times you gave us to Grandmother and Gramps. As children, we wished you needed a break more often.
From Wednesday to Sunday of this week the parents of the family for which I nanny are in San Francisco with their youngest son. Thus, I am left with the two oldest boys. I now know what it's like to be a working, single parent with desires for something greater in life. This job has taught me that I definitely want children, that I will be an excellent father someday down the road, that children must be taught to use manners and behave, and that family time is of utmost importance. Also, George Karl of the Denver Nuggets and I agree that shaking a baby is not an option. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yanpWXl9kRg NEVER.
So, it's been mustache-freezing cold in Boulder for the past week or two, which means inside activities. When I haven't been running my daddy daycare or selling shoes, I've been training at Movement quite a bit for some winter climbing at Hueco tanks State Park. I'm excited to say the least. Well, hopefully the moon, stars, and galaxies align and I get to have some off days in the upcoming months.
From Wednesday to Sunday of this week the parents of the family for which I nanny are in San Francisco with their youngest son. Thus, I am left with the two oldest boys. I now know what it's like to be a working, single parent with desires for something greater in life. This job has taught me that I definitely want children, that I will be an excellent father someday down the road, that children must be taught to use manners and behave, and that family time is of utmost importance. Also, George Karl of the Denver Nuggets and I agree that shaking a baby is not an option. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yanpWXl9kRg NEVER.
So, it's been mustache-freezing cold in Boulder for the past week or two, which means inside activities. When I haven't been running my daddy daycare or selling shoes, I've been training at Movement quite a bit for some winter climbing at Hueco tanks State Park. I'm excited to say the least. Well, hopefully the moon, stars, and galaxies align and I get to have some off days in the upcoming months.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
One Sixth
I spend one sixth of my total hours each week standing in front of this board with these holds. This is my most dominate, time-consuming relationship outside of work and sleep. Sometimes I pause and talk to people, but for the most part it's full throttle, no holds bared, all out war to succeed at whatever I decide is the task. I love the simplicity of the party tricks, a few moves, and failing because I am physically incapable. It is in front of this board that I realize my body has blatant deficiencies, inabilities, and a blessing or two. It is a beautiful thing to be constantly failing and, at the same time, gaining a deeper understanding of how your body works.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Rollin, Rollin, Rollin
There is a song that goes with the headline, but since all my media is on virus lock-down you will have to youtube it yourself. My computer has a terrible virus. "Boo, you whore." - Mean Girls.
This means more time do more rewarding things like punting on Flagstaff Mtn. I have a terrible disease which causes me to think I can climb any boulder problem. Well, maybe this is a blessing in disguise about 5 years early, once all my ingrams and physicals abilities manifest themselves. There are 4 climbs I have chosen to do before the New Year. These are not the greatest, most beautiful, most attainable, or even ones that I like. Sometimes the only reason is because it's there. Actually, that's a lie...because it's close. Anyway the winners are Trice, Apochalypse, Cage Free, and Free Range. Maybe you know them; maybe you don't. Who cares about the grade, who cares about the name even. I have chosen them because they are essentially two climbs with traverses, which were added to the beginning to make them harder, to produce 4 lines. Sounds a little like the pre-Arkansas visit a month-and-a-half ago. So I tried Trice yesterday and got spanked for a slew of reasons, but that's whatever. Sometimes it takes a visit to realise what you're against. Hopefully, next time will be a different result. Thye reason for trying these particular climbs is mostly "because;" however, they are intended to the the final chapter of my 2009 climbing year. If half of these get completed, it will be the exclamation to a year of improvement, injury, training, and growth. The second if is, if I can continue this rampage of mental growth, training, understanding, and systematically attempting to eliminate weaknesses, I will easily be one the top climbers in the world. Some people are laughing right now, or at least raising eyebrows. If completing half of the first task wasn't arduous enough, deciding to throw another 12 months on top of it seems truly impossible.
I'm a firm supporter of believing. Seems like if I believe enough, then it happens. Well, I've been exercising that since I wasn't sure if I would make it through architecture school 4 years ago. Turns out, it almost always comes true and quicker than I hoped. Keep your ears to the streets for the next year. Who knows, I might not have kids anymore, climb impossible rocks, and be the King of England. Well, why not try.
This means more time do more rewarding things like punting on Flagstaff Mtn. I have a terrible disease which causes me to think I can climb any boulder problem. Well, maybe this is a blessing in disguise about 5 years early, once all my ingrams and physicals abilities manifest themselves. There are 4 climbs I have chosen to do before the New Year. These are not the greatest, most beautiful, most attainable, or even ones that I like. Sometimes the only reason is because it's there. Actually, that's a lie...because it's close. Anyway the winners are Trice, Apochalypse, Cage Free, and Free Range. Maybe you know them; maybe you don't. Who cares about the grade, who cares about the name even. I have chosen them because they are essentially two climbs with traverses, which were added to the beginning to make them harder, to produce 4 lines. Sounds a little like the pre-Arkansas visit a month-and-a-half ago. So I tried Trice yesterday and got spanked for a slew of reasons, but that's whatever. Sometimes it takes a visit to realise what you're against. Hopefully, next time will be a different result. Thye reason for trying these particular climbs is mostly "because;" however, they are intended to the the final chapter of my 2009 climbing year. If half of these get completed, it will be the exclamation to a year of improvement, injury, training, and growth. The second if is, if I can continue this rampage of mental growth, training, understanding, and systematically attempting to eliminate weaknesses, I will easily be one the top climbers in the world. Some people are laughing right now, or at least raising eyebrows. If completing half of the first task wasn't arduous enough, deciding to throw another 12 months on top of it seems truly impossible.
I'm a firm supporter of believing. Seems like if I believe enough, then it happens. Well, I've been exercising that since I wasn't sure if I would make it through architecture school 4 years ago. Turns out, it almost always comes true and quicker than I hoped. Keep your ears to the streets for the next year. Who knows, I might not have kids anymore, climb impossible rocks, and be the King of England. Well, why not try.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Schtuff
It's been a while. Yep. Seems like the world is getting older and stuff has happened. Max trashed his ankle. Psychedelia came and went. I almost quit my job on two consecutive days last week, but then decided that would be financial suicide. Halloween is coming and Thanksgiving will have happened before too long. Jimmy and Brion are climbing things. Half of the people in the US are supposed to get swine flu. Thank goodness I already had it. And an Arkansas woman climbed a v8?!
That's right, I got the dirty from Jason and he said among other news about two weeks ago, Morgan Gattis became the first woman from Arkansas to climb a v8. Crazy! Well, maybe not really to most people, but it pretty much blows my mind. Orbital Mechanics was the victim at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Jason said it was pretty much domination once the infallible beta was installed. Well again congrats Morgan, but it's time to climb a 9. Yep that's always been my attitude and I'm sticking to my guns.
Another thing you should stick to are your morals. Last week was a tough one, not so much for me but the people around me made it difficult. Husbands beating wives makes me realize things I will never do and things I don't want to condone. Well, can't fully support thos ideals until I have a real job. Otherwise, I would be actively making myself homeless. Dumb.
Well, the Yankees made it again. Hope they can pull out a win this year. If not, you can be sure they will buy better players, which I love.
That's right, I got the dirty from Jason and he said among other news about two weeks ago, Morgan Gattis became the first woman from Arkansas to climb a v8. Crazy! Well, maybe not really to most people, but it pretty much blows my mind. Orbital Mechanics was the victim at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Jason said it was pretty much domination once the infallible beta was installed. Well again congrats Morgan, but it's time to climb a 9. Yep that's always been my attitude and I'm sticking to my guns.
Another thing you should stick to are your morals. Last week was a tough one, not so much for me but the people around me made it difficult. Husbands beating wives makes me realize things I will never do and things I don't want to condone. Well, can't fully support thos ideals until I have a real job. Otherwise, I would be actively making myself homeless. Dumb.
Well, the Yankees made it again. Hope they can pull out a win this year. If not, you can be sure they will buy better players, which I love.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Autumnal Life
Fall colors have nearly come and gone in Boulder. Sad times that it happened so quickly, but it was wonderful for a day or two. Here are a few pics of this one place near where I live. Lovely, really. White fences, blue and yellow homes, and trees of red and green. I missed the best of it while I was sick, but what can you do. You can however not get swine flu anymore because getting it once makes you immune!
Saw a soccer match last night. It wasn't much of a match, but that's how it goes when everyone in Denver gets dominated by the same team every fall. I was rooting for some of my favorite people. A cold night for soccer, but wonderful nonetheless. A perfect 4 hours of my life.
Do you ever get the feeling that everything is about to change and, when I say everything, I mean everything in life. Maybe it's the fall air, maybe because each day is coming closer to my favorite time if the year, or maybe everything is about to change because I want it to happen. I really do hope all the changes are wonderful and exciting ones. Since I came off the road five and half months ago, I have been participating in a life that I am probably displeased with 75% of the time. I sleep 10-12 hours a day because that's what makes time pass. This is not me and I really do hope for many things to be different than how they currently exist.
Breath-taking trees
The red maples leaves are best next to their green and yellow counterparts.
When I tell you the other red ones were already as red as they could possibly be, maybe you will begin to comprehend the special perfection of this one small bunch.
Saw a soccer match last night. It wasn't much of a match, but that's how it goes when everyone in Denver gets dominated by the same team every fall. I was rooting for some of my favorite people. A cold night for soccer, but wonderful nonetheless. A perfect 4 hours of my life.
Do you ever get the feeling that everything is about to change and, when I say everything, I mean everything in life. Maybe it's the fall air, maybe because each day is coming closer to my favorite time if the year, or maybe everything is about to change because I want it to happen. I really do hope all the changes are wonderful and exciting ones. Since I came off the road five and half months ago, I have been participating in a life that I am probably displeased with 75% of the time. I sleep 10-12 hours a day because that's what makes time pass. This is not me and I really do hope for many things to be different than how they currently exist.
Breath-taking trees
The red maples leaves are best next to their green and yellow counterparts.
When I tell you the other red ones were already as red as they could possibly be, maybe you will begin to comprehend the special perfection of this one small bunch.Tuesday, October 6, 2009
The Bubble
Everyone in Boulder knows everyone else. This is common knowledge. On second thought, it's more like 6 degrees of Kevin Bacon, but 2 degrees will suffice for Boulder. Sometimes this is not so great. However, as long as nothing awkward develops, you get to see tons of people you know on various levels. This is probably one of my most favorite things about Boulder. Meeting up with all kinds of people to do anything thinkable.
Well, at the moment I'm sick. Not sure what it is, but I've been on bedroom lock down for over two days. It feels like prison, but if that's what it takes to get better then fine. Yesterday I sent off for a revision of my portfolio. Hopefully this one is perfect. Also, I've been watching mad amounts of movies. Yesterday, it was The Breakup, Hell Boy 2, Mummy 2, Missed Call, Forgetting Sarah Marshall, and some love movie which I can't remember at the moment. Today I've seen Vertical Limit, The Sting, and Kit Kittredge. None that were that great, but I actually shed a tear in Kit Kittredge. I couldn't believe it either. Well, I am caring for kids these days and getting a bit older, so the story goes. Hopefully I will be well soon and able to take advantage of the wonderful fall weather in Boulder.
"It's about to get really good before it gets bad." Dave Graham
Well, at the moment I'm sick. Not sure what it is, but I've been on bedroom lock down for over two days. It feels like prison, but if that's what it takes to get better then fine. Yesterday I sent off for a revision of my portfolio. Hopefully this one is perfect. Also, I've been watching mad amounts of movies. Yesterday, it was The Breakup, Hell Boy 2, Mummy 2, Missed Call, Forgetting Sarah Marshall, and some love movie which I can't remember at the moment. Today I've seen Vertical Limit, The Sting, and Kit Kittredge. None that were that great, but I actually shed a tear in Kit Kittredge. I couldn't believe it either. Well, I am caring for kids these days and getting a bit older, so the story goes. Hopefully I will be well soon and able to take advantage of the wonderful fall weather in Boulder.
"It's about to get really good before it gets bad." Dave Graham
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Horseshoe Hell
The Ranch is a wonderful place. Take that back, everywhere in Northwest Arkansas becomes a special place as summer eases into fall and fall gives way to the perfection of winter. I will always have a fondness for this area of the country. It is a land where almost none of the climbing has been discovered, but almost all of it is locked up by private owners. Illicit walls and boulders that exist only in the imagination and your hopes.
Friday night Jason, Rob, Greg, and I slept on the porch of a cabin at the Ranch. Cool crisp night air and more stars than could be counted gave us much needed rest. The comp began sharply at 10am the next morning. Pledges were made between partners on not killing one another and the shotgun was fired. A mad scramble for respective routes left the lodge deserted. Jason and I retired to the Idahos to get the bouldering started for the day. Unfortunately, it was warm and there were surprisingly over 20 people at both of the warm up areas. We tried and tried, but neither of us could get motivated. Still feeling the accomplishment from the previous day we decided to watch a bit of the comp in the North Forty and perhaps try climbing again in the late afternoon. Everything came together around 5 and Jason put away Orbital Mechanics v8 in several minutes, while I found myself falling repeatedly on the last move of Kneeling before Power. After 5 tries, I was exhausted and chose to sit out the last one of the day. Jason, Ben Putman, and Sarah Orens joined forces in an effort to send Orb Weaverv8, but everyone was found lacking.
Dinner was had and we returned to the North Forty to watch some night climbing. Friends showed arrived and a good time was shared under head lamps. As we turned in for the night, the comp was barely half over for those competing.
Orbital Mechanics
Sarah on Orb Weaver
Lauren and Christine still excited about climbing after 14hrs of the comp.
Thursday, October 1, 2009
Horseshoe Hell
Lots to tell about the week long trip to Arkansas. Out of the blocks, Lauren and I looked like a scene from Home Alone as we ran to catch our plane to Tulsa after a huge luggage debacle. Well, we made it and Jason drove 100 miles to get us to Fayetteville by midnight. Whew. Thursday was low-key, but Bikes Blues and BBQ was in town. This means 200,000 bikes and bikers. Loud to say the least. Friday was spent preparing for the weekend competition at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Lauren was deposited in the early pm, while Jason and I left for Fontaine Red to check out a "cave feature."
The first large move on Fred's Roof
We both tried Chunk up the Deuce, but it was too warm for one of the holds, so we switched gears to Fred's Roof. I wasn't all that keen on it, but Jason was close from his first day on it several weeks ago. In no time at all we had done all the moves. Jason had given several good attempts from the ground and felt like a good rest was in order before the send. He said he would give it one more good burn so as not to forget the subtleties of each position before the rest. He pulled on and soon found himself at the last jump. I told him this was the time. He loaded his legs, pounced, roared, caught the final hold and we both screamed. Though I didn't show it, as I hadn't done the problem yet, I can't recall a time I was more excited in my climbing career and it wasn't even for me. By doing this problem, he and I became the 2nd and 3rd Arkansan climbers to climb an Arkansas v11. I hope more big things will happen for him this year. That night we drove to Jasper for dinner and then to the Ranch tired and emotionally exhausted, but feeling more than accomplished.
The first large move on Fred's Roof
Sunset on the drive back to the Ranch.
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