Friday, November 28, 2008

More Akansas Bouldering

Now that Thanksgiving and Black Friday are almost done; I am officially getting fat. Visiting my family and where I grew up in Memphis is great, but my motivation tends to plummet whenever I return home. The good news is that I'm leaving Monday morning for Chattanooga for a three week visit. I'll get to see an old friend and compete in the third leg of the Triple Crown. Definitely won't win, but it should be fun.

So on the note of visiting places, Arkansas was pleasent as was hoped. I climbed a total of seven out of the eight days I was there with six consecutively at the end. On Saturday, Jason, Ariel, Pierre, and I went to the Ranch. Good times as always. Once again, Ariel came close to sending Dig Dug and almost pulled off the second ascent of a new problem I established that day called B2SB approximately v4. I also established a line next to it called Forgotten But Not Lost. Both climb a blank face on several features to a nice topout.

On Sunday, Cole Fennel, Jason Haas, Brian Stuenkel, Dan Hickstein, Rob, and I went to Invasion. I had the chance to visit for the first time in the heat of this past summer and was astounded by the quality and quantity of boulders and routes. Unfortunately, this time it was bone-chilling cold and I was the only one to send something cleanly. I managed a boulder problem left of the Invasion Wall called Electraraillica. It was a nice mid-grade roof send as a consolation to not sending Her Majesty, which has some extremely tough tension movement. As any trip in that area should, the night finished at Ozark Cafe. Such good food after you've been abusing your body all day.
After a good night's sleep at Chad and Rhonda Watkin's House, everyone returned to Ozark Cafe to get Monday started off right. Sam's Throne was on the agenda for the day, and I was excited since I had never been. The place was amazing! I couldn't believe all the routes, the quality of the stone, the features, and the colors. Everyone more than atoned for thier Sunday performances, climbing route after route on gear. I attempted my first gear route and almost flashed. Too bad I don't really know how to use a crack. However, I did establish three more mid-grade boulder problems in an area called the Patio Boulders. The easiest of the three, Porch Monkey, is by itself, and climbs a face to a prow at ten feet. The next two are on the same wall. How Much is the easier of these two and comes in around v6. It begins on double underclings with a right dropknee above your head. You stab up and right to a rail, make a left hand move to a crimp and mantle. A good problem and possibly done, but Clay Frisbee's current Arkansas guidebook says nothing of it. Four feet to the left of that is a seem for a right hand with thin fingers and a left hand mono stack pinch. Fighting Mentality is around v9 and begins on these holds, stabs for a two finger bucket at the lip, and mantles the lip. This climb is probably unclimbed, but again Arkansas Rock makes no mention of this. The good news is that Cole Fennel is publishing a new guidebook for Arkansas through Jason Haas's company Fixed Pin. IT should be of the highest quality and clear up some gray area in the state as far as climbing is concerned.

Tuesday, I went to Area 74 with Pierre and Rob. I had planned on taking pictures the whole day, but after a running dyno session I had to put on the boots. Everyone climbed well with both Rob and Pierre coming fairly close to sending Ripple Effect and Poppa Dickey. Rob coached me through my first running dyno and I tried to teach him how to mentally complete a climb when you can physically do it. Turns out that Rob is a better teacher/cheerleader. Enjoy the pics.





Lauren Marie said...

that is one sweet sweater someone is wearing in the third to last picture