Wednesday, November 19, 2008

"You can't be picky in a bad economy"

Sunday evening was a sad time in Colorado for me, but exciting to be starting the journey. Sunday was spent climbing in Clear Creek with the closest person person to me, second only to Jason. It was a good climbing and better company. That evening, goodbyes were said and ways were parted for the time being. It's sad to put things on hold, but hopefully all the members of my family will have open arms whenever I return. I left at one in the morning and arrived seventeen hours later after two naps and several stops for pictures. I still don't have a usb cord, so no pictures but that will come eventually.
Today was spent at Area 74 cleaning and climbing projects. Hopefully two of the projects that were cleaned for the third time today in the past year will be climbable when I return on Thursday. Another several projects were considered but were determined to be impossibly hard for two days of effort this week. I did, however, manage to make the likely third ascent of Ryan Sewell's Oracle. This is an amazing problem on the main wall, which climbs an blank overhanging face on a pinch, sloper, and terrible crimps with a slight dyno at the end. Unfortunately, like most of the climbs on the main wall, it drops off at a jug after the dyno, but still a spectacular climb. Jason is always asking if I am going to try this climb of if I will attempt it. I don't know why, but he is enamored with this climb. Well, without is enthusiasm I wouldn't have tried it today. The old Bad Girls project was sent. This too is an unbelievable climb. It traverse right to left on a completely vertical face utilizing right hand bumps on small crimps and a hig left heel-hook. The finish is either a dyno or a climb. I saved the dyno for Jason's wishes and did the climb portion, which now goes by The House of Magic for a local gym owner. This man's gym is affectionately referred to as the climb's name, because he sets the hardest traverses and effectively teaches levitation. Anyway, a great climb and maybe both are soft for the grade of V11, but it will be difficult to say since Jason is probably one of the only other people psyched and strong enough to climb something that difficult, and he only has one good clavical.
Well, tomorrow it is off to the Goat Farm for two rarely sent problems with Pierre.


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