So now we wait for ice to melt and rocks to dry. In the mean time I've been thinking what I'm going to do with my life after this trip. Who knows, ugh. Possibly the answer is in a long visit up the west coast to Squamish in early spring.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Jesus Watch Oh Nine
So now we wait for ice to melt and rocks to dry. In the mean time I've been thinking what I'm going to do with my life after this trip. Who knows, ugh. Possibly the answer is in a long visit up the west coast to Squamish in early spring.
Monday, January 26, 2009
Guidebook Update
The Ranch
JTW blowing minds and demoralizing others on Midnight Frightening v11
Upward Warrior v8 starts in a standing position with sidepulls bear-hugging the arete. It gains the sloper at 10' and tops out slightly left.
While Jeremy was gone, I proceeded to do the likely second ascent of an old Blake Strickland problem in the north Idahos called Isolation v8. Although it is an eliminate, it climbs some amazing sandstone slopers, so I was pleased to finally do it. Next I met up with the only other people at the Ranch that day who also happened to be friends. I had the chance to witness what is very likely the first native female Arkansan send a v7 in Razor's Edge. Morgan Gattis has been holding her own with the boys for years, and she definitely seeing dividends these days. Hopefully her climbing will continue to flourish. Across from Razor's Edge is another Blake Strickland problem know as Dark Elf v10. This was one of the original four v10s at the Ranch before outside developers came. Unfortunately, I was told by Blake that the problem never saw a second ascent as it broke shortly after his first ascent and is probably unrepeatable in its current state. After 30 minutes on Sunday, I had worked out all the moves except for one, which still illudes me. In this time Morgan sent her project and Jeremy reappeared, so I decided to call it quits on that rig until a warmer day.
Last stop for the day was yet another Strickland problem. Come O Long v8, was established a little over a year ago in the south Idahos directly behind Even Dirtier. It is an excellent short face climb with a slightly hazardous fall potential. Blake chose to top it out by traversing left and coming back right; however, I thought the correct line should be straight up. I nearly flashed the problem, but neglected to fully consider the topout. Short work yielded my second Strickland problem of the day and another possible second ascent. I was happy to have done this one, especially since I believe a sit start will be possible on this one. By that time it was so cold one could barely stay warm even while climbing in a down jacket, so we called it quits. All in all it was a good day. A lot of climbing by myself and "alone time", but that's what this roadtrip was predicated on anyway.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Second Ascent? Naw...First Ascent!
Next it was back across the street to Shapeshifter Direct. I had established this direct start in the fall of '07 to the existing Shapeshifter, which is a traverse, and had suggested the grade of v10. While the traverse is a good problem in its own right, I felt the direct version to be the true line and the first of many difficult roof problems to come from 74. A descent flash attempt yielded another successful climb in a few more trys for Mr. JTW.
Two down, two to go. Next was the Battle of the Bulge project. When Scott Fitzgerald published the guidebook to Area 74 through Drtopo.com, he believed this climb to be the most difficult, suggesting a possible grade of v12 even though no one had climbed it. The problem is an instant classic if you're able to pull off the ground, and it is some of the friendliest sandstone in the Ozarks. The bottom half is slightly overhung and trends right to left up a steep flake. This section is probably v1 to an undercling. From here the problem get progressively more technical and difficult including drop knees, flags, a half inch deep mono, a grossly thin sloping crimp, and a stab for the finish. I honestly doubt anyone repeats this line for a very long time, as it will take someone with some special and finely honed fortes and some serious determination. Jeremy decided to name it Double Live Gonzo (v11). Well done sir!
While Double Live Gonzo was the crowning moment, it would not be JTW's last tune of the day. In twilight we walked to the Eastern most end of 74 in hopes that Jeremy had one last climb in him. A month and a half ago I had opened the former Bad Girls project in the corridor, calling it The House of Magic (v10). With another second ascent looming, I gave the play-by-play in hopes that it would get flashed. A good effort was had, but no such luck. Not a mintue before complete darkness, Jeremy sent it next go. We gathered our belongings and lumbered to the car, excited about all that was accomplished but equally exhausted.
Tomorrow we are travelling to a nearby magical wonderland known as the Kingdom of Caring. We have both climbed several days in a row, but there is a streak to be kept alive and domination will most likely ensue.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Second Ascents
Ryan Sewell's Broken Earth climbs what Ryan claims are "some of the smallest crimps he can hold." Agreed.
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Split Rocks
From Darkness Comes Light climbs out the roof ten feet left of the crack in the face.
The last stop of the day was Split Rocks. This is perhaps one of the most wonderful places in all of Arkansas. To date, there are two established boulder problems, about half a dozen project boulder problems, one bolted project sport climb, and a project trad line. With such few lines and few people knowing its location, Split Rocks remains in obscurity, which is probably for the best. Since I am unaware of the current state of access for this land, I would suggest not visiting unless you can do whatever it is that you desire to do in a few hours. I digress. Anyway, Dave Graham put up a highball pocketed testpiece in February of '08 known as Release the Squirrels, which premiered in the movie Dosage 5. It climbs a 40' face of impeccable white standstone. After 30 minutes of work, Jeremy had made it through the low crux and was in the middle of the 30' slab topout. Needless to say, he was a happy camper once he was finally on top.
Jeremy sticking the first pocket on Release the Squirrels (v12).
Jeremy battling the redpoint crux of Release the Squirrels.
Friday, January 16, 2009
Finding Forever?
The black face on the Green Monster boulder
A favorite tree of mine on the way to the black face.
Side note: Jeremy and I saw two bald eagles.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
"Climbing Porn"
JTW on Reflections at LRC. Let it be known that he claims he will be able to do this v10 off the couch when he is 70. Maybe it will count as one of your ten problems for that leg of the Triple Crown in 2057.
Thursday, January 8, 2009
The sole purpose of coming to Arkansas is to climb rocks. Others might argue for attending college or visiting a national river, but it's really rock climbing. A four, sometimes, gentlemanly squad has made the trip. Two will leave for school in several days and the other is putting his hopes and dreams over the next several months into securing his legendary status as a rock/gym climber in the state, as well as possibly the first Wal-mart door greeter under the age of 60 with a three digit IQ. Over the last two days these three have done some serious rock climbing in record fashion; hopefully there is much more to come before the school boys leave. The next post will be photos of said recent and complete domination. (Side note: it takes a committed individual to begin a road trip with less than a Franklin in the pocket, i know several with such levels of commitment.) As for me, I'm considering quitting rock climbing and taking up golf professionally. Others have paved this way and I believe it will be more lucrative than selling shoes or chasing rocks around the world.
Currently, it is crisp and sunny in Fayetteville. It is a Thursday afternoon and a rest day which means one thing, we're preparing mentally and physically to drink drinks and holler holler holler tonight at Grubs. Should be interesting since one of us isn't old enough to do the former and half of us are broke, eliminating all plans for the night.