The Ranch

You can't climb everyday nor should you. Turns out Jeremy is learning this one the hard way. Yesterday we visited Horseshoe Canyon Ranch(http://www.gohcr.com/rock_climbing.htm). Sorry the website is run by punters. Anyway, the high for the day was 30 and felt about 10 degrees colder. Windy, high humidity, and no sun means it takes you an hour to warm-up, if you can even call your current state after that period of time as "warm." Be that as it may we tried to climb stuff. He had a streak to maintain of 7 days of climbing in which he had climbed at least a v11, and I, on the other hand, was trying to send anything. We decided on the divide and conquer method, but unfortunately Jeremy was unable to get warmed up again once he made the 20 minute hike across the canyon. That coupled with the fact that he was trying to make the second ascent of Dave Graham's power testpiece, Loved by Few Hated by Many v13, didn't bode well. He rant into two hours later without a pad and confessed the ending of the streak. Just two days before he and I had visited DeSoto. As usual, he wreck shop and I tried to keep up. I sent nothing for the day, while he crushed the second ascent of Zach Leavitt's Midnight Frightening v11. He the proceeded to establish two of his own in Project Pat v9 and Upward Warrior v8, both of which were sick climbs.
JTW blowing minds and demoralizing others on Midnight Frightening v11

Upward Warrior v8 starts in a standing position with sidepulls bear-hugging the arete. It gains the sloper at 10' and tops out slightly left.

While Jeremy was gone, I proceeded to do the likely second ascent of an old Blake Strickland problem in the north Idahos called Isolation v8. Although it is an eliminate, it climbs some amazing sandstone slopers, so I was pleased to finally do it. Next I met up with the only other people at the Ranch that day who also happened to be friends. I had the chance to witness what is very likely the first native female Arkansan send a v7 in Razor's Edge. Morgan Gattis has been holding her own with the boys for years, and she definitely seeing dividends these days. Hopefully her climbing will continue to flourish. Across from Razor's Edge is another Blake Strickland problem know as Dark Elf v10. This was one of the original four v10s at the Ranch before outside developers came. Unfortunately, I was told by Blake that the problem never saw a second ascent as it broke shortly after his first ascent and is probably unrepeatable in its current state. After 30 minutes on Sunday, I had worked out all the moves except for one, which still illudes me. In this time Morgan sent her project and Jeremy reappeared, so I decided to call it quits on that rig until a warmer day.

Last stop for the day was yet another Strickland problem. Come O Long v8, was established a little over a year ago in the south Idahos directly behind Even Dirtier. It is an excellent short face climb with a slightly hazardous fall potential. Blake chose to top it out by traversing left and coming back right; however, I thought the correct line should be straight up. I nearly flashed the problem, but neglected to fully consider the topout. Short work yielded my second Strickland problem of the day and another possible second ascent. I was happy to have done this one, especially since I believe a sit start will be possible on this one. By that time it was so cold one could barely stay warm even while climbing in a down jacket, so we called it quits. All in all it was a good day. A lot of climbing by myself and "alone time", but that's what this roadtrip was predicated on anyway.

Second Ascent? Naw...First Ascent!

Today Jeremy and I went to Area 74 so he could continue to wreck shop in Arkansas. He did four problems in several hours and the easiest was his first FA at the location. After warming up we went across the street to the North face of the Ripple Effect boulder. I had brushed two sloper problems here on several different occasions over the past year. Although these problems are a mere eight feet tall, they are still great little problems on high quality sandstone. Unfortunately, it's facing North, so there's always moss and lichen growing and the stone is on the soft end which makes it sandy when it's not brushed often. After thirty minutes of serious brushing and rechalking, Jeremy finally managed to send the left problem and called it Messy Bear (v8). The problem begins on a sloper and is a one move wonder to a right hand pinch. I followed suit several minutes later, and was pleased as I have always wanted to climb this short face since brushing it.


Next it was back across the street to Shapeshifter Direct. I had established this direct start in the fall of '07 to the existing Shapeshifter, which is a traverse, and had suggested the grade of v10. While the traverse is a good problem in its own right, I felt the direct version to be the true line and the first of many difficult roof problems to come from 74. A descent flash attempt yielded another successful climb in a few more trys for Mr. JTW.

Two down, two to go. Next was the Battle of the Bulge project. When Scott Fitzgerald published the guidebook to Area 74 through Drtopo.com, he believed this climb to be the most difficult, suggesting a possible grade of v12 even though no one had climbed it. The problem is an instant classic if you're able to pull off the ground, and it is some of the friendliest sandstone in the Ozarks. The bottom half is slightly overhung and trends right to left up a steep flake. This section is probably v1 to an undercling. From here the problem get progressively more technical and difficult including drop knees, flags, a half inch deep mono, a grossly thin sloping crimp, and a stab for the finish. I honestly doubt anyone repeats this line for a very long time, as it will take someone with some special and finely honed fortes and some serious determination. Jeremy decided to name it Double Live Gonzo (v11). Well done sir!

While Double Live Gonzo was the crowning moment, it would not be JTW's last tune of the day. In twilight we walked to the Eastern most end of 74 in hopes that Jeremy had one last climb in him. A month and a half ago I had opened the former Bad Girls project in the corridor, calling it The House of Magic (v10). With another second ascent looming, I gave the play-by-play in hopes that it would get flashed. A good effort was had, but no such luck. Not a mintue before complete darkness, Jeremy sent it next go. We gathered our belongings and lumbered to the car, excited about all that was accomplished but equally exhausted.

Tomorrow we are travelling to a nearby magical wonderland known as the Kingdom of Caring. We have both climbed several days in a row, but there is a streak to be kept alive and domination will most likely ensue.

Second Ascents

Two nights ago several friends were talking about climbing. One asked another if he had put up anything recently. The unspecific nature of the question was a bit confusing to the person it was posed. Was it about opening new boulders, claiming first ascents, or simply climbing rocks? The answer: no, just second ascents.

As of late, Jeremy Tyler Walton has been on a second ascent spree. Now, that's not the most difficult thing to maintain in Arkansas since first ascents are going up everywhere and few people do a good job of sharing information about a new climb. Nonetheless, the guy has been "turning beef to patties" to quote Lil' Wayne. Last Monday, he added another tick to his second ascent list with his quick send of Ryan Sewell's Broken Earth (v11/12) at Fontaine Red. Later I received the full list of his second ascents, some of which only two people have done. Neat.

Dragon Slayer (v12), Little Rock City, FA: Tony Lamiche

Reflections (v10), Little Rock City, FA: Matt Bosley

Shadow Jumper (v11/12), Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, FA: Jason Kehl

Release the Squirrels (v12), Split Rocks, FA: Dave Graham

Western Gold (v11), Laurel Snow, FA: Jimmy Webb

Broken Earth (v11/12), Fonatine Red, FA: Ryan Sewell

God Given (v10), Horsepens 40, FA: Josh Reyes

Her Majesty (v10), Fontaine Red, FA: Scott Fitzgerald

Crimpit's Tea Room (v10), Goat Farm, FA: Blake Strickland

Dirt Merchant Direct (v10), Springdale, Fa: yours truly

Ryan Sewell's Broken Earth climbs what Ryan claims are "some of the smallest crimps he can hold." Agreed.

Split Rocks

Yesterday, Jason, Pierre, Jeremy, and I decided to go climbing. Unfortunately, once we arrived at the destination, Pierre and Jason chose not to climb; however, they still honked their literal and proverbial horns. The first stop was at Area 74 where Jeremy and I both had a little work to do. Jeremy began his rampage by warming up on and completing The Oracle (v11). The first ascent likely came this time last year by Blake Strickland. I believe it was originally called Twilight, but not much was ever said about the climb. A few months later, Ryan Sewell had been visiting the Ozarks for a while and climbed what he believed to be an undone project in The Oracle. Words and pictures were spread, and with three repeats occurring in the past month and a half the problem will most likely keep the later name. I managed this problem about a month ago and would reccomend giving it a try.

The Oracle

Next, Jeremy and I moved over to the project roof at 74. While the rock can be friable under this roof, it has the capability to produce some long and powerful roof climbs to highball finishes in the high double-digit range. In two or three goes Jeremy found himself at the top of From Darkness Comes Light (v10). Two summers ago I opened up the stand (Eternal Twilight v7) to this porblem with the intention of working my way deeper into the roof. As time passed and school began in the fall, I was unable to complete the sit start. The first ascent was claimed to be either Scott Fitzgerald or Eric Gifford sometime that winter, but I don't know the dates. Maybe a year later, Joe Meiners visited from Dallas and believed he had a first ascent on the problem and called it Arachnaphobia. If you haven't noticed already this is a trend in Arkansas. Someone does an amazing climb, doesn't publicize it, and climbing in Arkansas continue as if nothing ever happened. It's fine not to inform the public about what is being climbed, but it makes for an unorganized and unprogressive climbing community.

From Darkness Comes Light climbs out the roof ten feet left of the crack in the face.

The last stop of the day was Split Rocks. This is perhaps one of the most wonderful places in all of Arkansas. To date, there are two established boulder problems, about half a dozen project boulder problems, one bolted project sport climb, and a project trad line. With such few lines and few people knowing its location, Split Rocks remains in obscurity, which is probably for the best. Since I am unaware of the current state of access for this land, I would suggest not visiting unless you can do whatever it is that you desire to do in a few hours. I digress. Anyway, Dave Graham put up a highball pocketed testpiece in February of '08 known as Release the Squirrels, which premiered in the movie Dosage 5. It climbs a 40' face of impeccable white standstone. After 30 minutes of work, Jeremy had made it through the low crux and was in the middle of the 30' slab topout. Needless to say, he was a happy camper once he was finally on top.

Jeremy sticking the first pocket on Release the Squirrels (v12).

Jeremy battling the redpoint crux of Release the Squirrels.

Finding Forever?

To die by freezing must be one of the worst possible ways of surrendering one's life. Yesterday was one of the most inhospitable days that I can remember in my six winters in Fayetteville, AR. So ofcourse Jeremy and I decided to go exploring at Lincoln Lake. The temperature stayed in the teens the whole day and felt below zero with the wind and humidity. After three hours of hiking, the cold managed to freeze my beard and the mustache Jeremy so badly wants to grow.

The objective of the day was not this but to visit a potentially special south face of a boulder deep in the woods. For the record, Lincoln is the epitome of Arkansas sandstone in areas where rock quality is poor. The stone here is grossly over featured and yields very few desirable climbing faces. However, that blessed miniscule percentage is spectacular. Rewind nearly a year ago; both my brother, Jason, and I are healing from finger injuries. Four months of nothing had me chomping at the bit to climb something. This lead me to Lincoln in search of hard climbing of any style. I had visited in December shortly after school ended and wanted more. Climbing in Arkansas produces an effect that makes an explorer believe that just around the corner will hold the "next big thing." Couple this insatiable hunger to explore with a maddening desire to climb and you will never want to go on a hike with me again. That late winter day brought me to the "black face" after four miles of bushwacking. Words like "amazing, unbelievable, hard, and double-digit" keep liberating themselves from my mouth since that day, and yesterday's visit reconfirmed these words. I don't know how friable the rock is, but hopefully this 16' face will hold itself together long enough for someone to get up it.

The black face on the Green Monster boulder

A favorite tree of mine on the way to the black face.

Side note: Jeremy and I saw two bald eagles.

"Climbing Porn"

From more than a few set of lips I have heard the term "climbing porn" in reference to "all things good" in relation to climbing media. Put simply, if you are passionate about something, then you probably know how to satisfy a craving for that passion. Here is some climbing porn from the last month of climbing in the Southeast and Midwest.

Two things about this one. First, there was legendary celebrity turnout one cold day at Little Rock City; it was also one of the coldest days in recent memory. The list included Tyler and Jeff Landman, Jason Kehl, Abbey Smith, James Litz, and Dave Chancellor to name a few. Quite the possey, unfortunately there were few climbers of regular strength to witness the domination that day. Secondly, this picture is an example of how to warm up on really cold days if you get tired of jumping jacks or hiking. Climbing upside down is incredibly taxing, but a wonderfully fun challenge if you can manage to forget about trying to climb difficult climbs by standard opinion.

Tyler Landman's Typhoon at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Sadly an elimanate, but a spectacular climb. It saw the second, third, and fourth ascents from Jon Glassberg, Nate Draughn, and Jeremy Tyler Walton respectively.

Jason Powell obliterating the LRC boulders with only one collar bone.

Nate Draughn warming up like a real man in Fred's Cave, which is apparently at Horseshoe Canyon these days.

Jon G again on James Litz's Suck Creek testpiece: The Bosnian. This one is almost impossible unless you get the feet proper.

JTW on Reflections at LRC. Let it be known that he claims he will be able to do this v10 off the couch when he is 70. Maybe it will count as one of your ten problems for that leg of the Triple Crown in 2057.

Diving in head-first, the last month and a half has been crazy. Four holidays came and went, if others count my birthday as that but it's another day of the week even to me. I went from Memphis to Chattanooga to Lexington to Memphis to Chattanooga to Memphis to Fayetteville and hopefully I stay put for long enough not to live out of the trunk of my Camry. I've run into old friends and explored with new ones. By the way, making new friends equals la buona vita. So it's Fayetteville for a while and it comes with old baggage, "if you will," most of which one doesn't mind carrying. Reminiscing is certainly a past time of mine, so the college alma mater should do well.

The sole purpose of coming to Arkansas is to climb rocks. Others might argue for attending college or visiting a national river, but it's really rock climbing. A four, sometimes, gentlemanly squad has made the trip. Two will leave for school in several days and the other is putting his hopes and dreams over the next several months into securing his legendary status as a rock/gym climber in the state, as well as possibly the first Wal-mart door greeter under the age of 60 with a three digit IQ. Over the last two days these three have done some serious rock climbing in record fashion; hopefully there is much more to come before the school boys leave. The next post will be photos of said recent and complete domination. (Side note: it takes a committed individual to begin a road trip with less than a Franklin in the pocket, i know several with such levels of commitment.) As for me, I'm considering quitting rock climbing and taking up golf professionally. Others have paved this way and I believe it will be more lucrative than selling shoes or chasing rocks around the world.

Currently, it is crisp and sunny in Fayetteville. It is a Thursday afternoon and a rest day which means one thing, we're preparing mentally and physically to drink drinks and holler holler holler tonight at Grubs. Should be interesting since one of us isn't old enough to do the former and half of us are broke, eliminating all plans for the night.

More Akansas Bouldering

Now that Thanksgiving and Black Friday are almost done; I am officially getting fat. Visiting my family and where I grew up in Memphis is great, but my motivation tends to plummet whenever I return home. The good news is that I'm leaving Monday morning for Chattanooga for a three week visit. I'll get to see an old friend and compete in the third leg of the Triple Crown. Definitely won't win, but it should be fun.

So on the note of visiting places, Arkansas was pleasent as was hoped. I climbed a total of seven out of the eight days I was there with six consecutively at the end. On Saturday, Jason, Ariel, Pierre, and I went to the Ranch. Good times as always. Once again, Ariel came close to sending Dig Dug and almost pulled off the second ascent of a new problem I established that day called B2SB approximately v4. I also established a line next to it called Forgotten But Not Lost. Both climb a blank face on several features to a nice topout.

On Sunday, Cole Fennel, Jason Haas, Brian Stuenkel, Dan Hickstein, Rob, and I went to Invasion. I had the chance to visit for the first time in the heat of this past summer and was astounded by the quality and quantity of boulders and routes. Unfortunately, this time it was bone-chilling cold and I was the only one to send something cleanly. I managed a boulder problem left of the Invasion Wall called Electraraillica. It was a nice mid-grade roof send as a consolation to not sending Her Majesty, which has some extremely tough tension movement. As any trip in that area should, the night finished at Ozark Cafe. Such good food after you've been abusing your body all day.
After a good night's sleep at Chad and Rhonda Watkin's House, everyone returned to Ozark Cafe to get Monday started off right. Sam's Throne was on the agenda for the day, and I was excited since I had never been. The place was amazing! I couldn't believe all the routes, the quality of the stone, the features, and the colors. Everyone more than atoned for thier Sunday performances, climbing route after route on gear. I attempted my first gear route and almost flashed. Too bad I don't really know how to use a crack. However, I did establish three more mid-grade boulder problems in an area called the Patio Boulders. The easiest of the three, Porch Monkey, is by itself, and climbs a face to a prow at ten feet. The next two are on the same wall. How Much is the easier of these two and comes in around v6. It begins on double underclings with a right dropknee above your head. You stab up and right to a rail, make a left hand move to a crimp and mantle. A good problem and possibly done, but Clay Frisbee's current Arkansas guidebook says nothing of it. Four feet to the left of that is a seem for a right hand with thin fingers and a left hand mono stack pinch. Fighting Mentality is around v9 and begins on these holds, stabs for a two finger bucket at the lip, and mantles the lip. This climb is probably unclimbed, but again Arkansas Rock makes no mention of this. The good news is that Cole Fennel is publishing a new guidebook for Arkansas through Jason Haas's company Fixed Pin. IT should be of the highest quality and clear up some gray area in the state as far as climbing is concerned.

Tuesday, I went to Area 74 with Pierre and Rob. I had planned on taking pictures the whole day, but after a running dyno session I had to put on the boots. Everyone climbed well with both Rob and Pierre coming fairly close to sending Ripple Effect and Poppa Dickey. Rob coached me through my first running dyno and I tried to teach him how to mentally complete a climb when you can physically do it. Turns out that Rob is a better teacher/cheerleader. Enjoy the pics.

Mark Twight: Kiss or Kill

Last Thursday I departed for a week-long (not to be confused with the "furlong") visit to my parents house in Newark, Delaware or NeDe I suppose it would be called if anyone here had any pride for their place. Prior to my flight my buddy Rob lent me his copy of Mark Twights Kiss or Kill. I knew very little about Mark Twight and held no preconceptions. By the time I was descending into Philadelphia I had finished half of the book. This auto-biography is a unique collection of old and sometimes re-written passages that recounts the most influential climbs of Mark Twight's career.
Twight lead a rather runout lifestyle cutting away from him anyone or anything that got to close and/or prevented him from concentrating on climbing. He was able to disolve relationships faster than snow melts when held under warm rushing water. His passion, or more appropriatly, his obsession for the craggy peaks of the Alps or the illusive summits of the Himalayas smothered the first half if not three-quarters of Kiss or Kill. His journal entries are obsessive, filled with emotion, and at first-thought seem to balance pracariously on the ridge of self-masochism and suicide. However, at a little over half way through the book, there is a subtle change in his writing. Mark's most profound changes occur in his climbing style and his personal life. Ironically, he seems to lighten up a bit. The reader is left to decide whether it is indeed a true change in Twights soul or simply just him giving into the majority. A majority who practice a form of alpinism which Mark claims is lightened by technology and a lack of ethics. Either way you sway, if you are a climber, a boulderer, or an alpinist, his stories are highly inspirational and also get the reader to asses the past, present, and future of their sport.

Tonto and the Lone Ranger

Well, life without my sons has been tough. I enough spending time with my other half in Arkansas, but not too many people act like my sons. They can be overly crude sometimes, but they keep me on my toes and young. Good news is that Rob and I should be climbing together all weekend in the AR. I have never really climbed with him in Arkansas, so it should be a great time. As for my other son, he is preparing to dominate a climbing competition over the Thanksgiving break in Delaware. Maybe there will be good news from that end as well.

So, since I've arrived in Arkansas, all my successful climbing has come on solo missions. I climbed Thursday with a bunch of friends, and was able to take some pictures, but didn't really get anything accomplished as far as climbing is concerned. Ariel Smith and Lauren Anders both managed to complete The Fin at Area 74. Both had been working hard on the problem and benefited from the temps and getting to work the problem with another girl of similar size. Needless to say, we were all excited for them. At the end of the day I tried one of the many projects I brushed while I was out with a finger injury last spring. I thought the project would be in the 10-12 range, but I have a tendency to overlook feet. Unfortunately, this particular project is completely out of my league, but the good news is that it is definitely possible.

Today, I paid the Goat Farm a visit. Though it doesn't have many climbs, it is a wonderful place to visit on a cold afternoon as it is south facing and the Goat Farm is only 12 miles from the University of Arkansas. The Goat Farm holds two note-worthy boulder problems: The Butcher and Crimpit's Tea Room. Both climb crimps on a 15 degree overhanging face and are of extremely high quality. Within 15 minutes the Butcher was completed and I had moved down the wall to Crimpit's. Crimpit's was first climbed by Blake Strickland around Thanksgiving in 2003. Since then, it has only seen two other ascents to my knowledge, so I was quite pleased to be siting on top of the rock after another 45 minutes of effort. It is an amazing feeling to complete climbs that you have always dreamed of doing, and to have been doing them at will since arriving in Arkansas is empowering. Well, tomorrow Jason, Pierre, Ariel, I and others will hopefully meet up with Rob for some climbing at Horseshoe Canyon. 'Til next time.

Lauren on The Fin

Hansel is a wonderful moderate on the right end on the Crimpit's wall.

The Butcher is a two move dyno on the far left of the wall, and Crimpit's climbs between the orange streaks in the foreground.

IF YOU DONT GIVE A DAMN WE DONT GIVE A FUCK: LIFE WITHOUT JAVID

"You can't be picky in a bad economy"

Sunday evening was a sad time in Colorado for me, but exciting to be starting the journey. Sunday was spent climbing in Clear Creek with the closest person person to me, second only to Jason. It was a good climbing and better company. That evening, goodbyes were said and ways were parted for the time being. It's sad to put things on hold, but hopefully all the members of my family will have open arms whenever I return. I left at one in the morning and arrived seventeen hours later after two naps and several stops for pictures. I still don't have a usb cord, so no pictures but that will come eventually.
Today was spent at Area 74 cleaning and climbing projects. Hopefully two of the projects that were cleaned for the third time today in the past year will be climbable when I return on Thursday. Another several projects were considered but were determined to be impossibly hard for two days of effort this week. I did, however, manage to make the likely third ascent of Ryan Sewell's Oracle. This is an amazing problem on the main wall, which climbs an blank overhanging face on a pinch, sloper, and terrible crimps with a slight dyno at the end. Unfortunately, like most of the climbs on the main wall, it drops off at a jug after the dyno, but still a spectacular climb. Jason is always asking if I am going to try this climb of if I will attempt it. I don't know why, but he is enamored with this climb. Well, without is enthusiasm I wouldn't have tried it today. The old Bad Girls project was sent. This too is an unbelievable climb. It traverse right to left on a completely vertical face utilizing right hand bumps on small crimps and a hig left heel-hook. The finish is either a dyno or a climb. I saved the dyno for Jason's wishes and did the climb portion, which now goes by The House of Magic for a local gym owner. This man's gym is affectionately referred to as the climb's name, because he sets the hardest traverses and effectively teaches levitation. Anyway, a great climb and maybe both are soft for the grade of V11, but it will be difficult to say since Jason is probably one of the only other people psyched and strong enough to climb something that difficult, and he only has one good clavical.
Well, tomorrow it is off to the Goat Farm for two rarely sent problems with Pierre.

David

Food Poisoning is Not the Waddage

So, exactly that, the only thing that might be worse than food poisoning are paper cuts from cardboard, and that's only because their intensity is shorter lived.  I managed to cook a meal the night before yesterday for a special someone and Youngmoney.  Well, turns out I was the only one to get sick, which is fine, but the soup came out all wrong from the beginning.  Wrong consistency, missing ingredients, but at least it had love.  Starting yesterday around 4 in the a.m., I could not sleep and couldn't keep anything inside me.  Simply terrible.  I spent the whole day by myself trying to sleep and trying to work on a portfolio, but no such luck on either.  

Last night, I decided to give up early and go to bed.  The one person I wanted to see could not be found, but such is life.  To quote Jason, "they can't do it like you," sums up why I wanted that help above all the others.  So, another sleepless night, which is why this post has such a crazy timestamp.  It was one of those where you think you are sleeping and surely it must be almost daybreak, but in actuality it's 1:45 and the eternity you spent in the half and half land was only 3 hours.  If this is what hell is like, I hope I'm not damned with such a fate.

On a brighter note, Youngmoney, Mr. Delaware, a fellow named Jordan, two girls (one of which is the special one), myself, and probably some other unknown gentlemen are going to the desert this weekend for a little climbing.  I've always thought if you can't like trad climbing in Indian Creek, then you can't like it.  We'll see if that holds true.  Also, if everything goes well, I should have a new camera by then, and hopefully Mr. Delaware will give me some tutorials on howda use dat new camera.  

Goodnight moon. 

Every New Beginning Comes from Some Other Beginning's End

I am going to start off by saying that the last post is what it is.  No apologies, but that could very well be a typical post from Rob.  Jason thought it would be a good idea to have several people administrate this blog and give others the opportunity to share their lives as guest authors in the starting lineup.  Should be a refreshing mix of stories and styles.

As Rob said, yesterday he, Greg, and I went to Eldo for "church."  They went for the more appropriate reason (trad climbing) and I for bouldering.  The purpose of the trip was exploration on my part and for the boys to get and take photos for Steve Lavin's upcoming Eldorado Canyon guide Book.  Should be a good one, but only if the boys make the front cover.  Also, as Rob said, "church" lasted a long time yesterday which gave me time call the parental units, have my phone die, and get up a roadside piece of rock known as the Milton Boulder.  Fairly classic boulder I suppose, but I certainly got on better problems earlier in the day (Elegant Universe, Lost, and Blade Runner).  In a half hour I had gone from considering doing a climb to standing on top of the rock listening to hikers cheer for what they had just witnessed.  Never Say Never was the climb.  I'm not sure, but I don't think it has been climbed by many people but that's mostly because the boulders come from the walls, so why not climb hundreds of feet instead of fifteen.  Cool problem at the end of it all, and exciting to have done it.

Today marks the last week that I will be a shoe salesman at Clarks (clarksusa.com).  The past two and a half months have had their highs and lows, and I will miss the job.  Not so much the sixty hours a week and only getting paid for forty of it, but the people who come through the door.  Clarks made me realize that I love making people happy, not as a people pleaser but through random acts of kindness, sincerity, and a smile on my face.  Learning to serve others in a selfless fashion is completely humbling and rewarding without parallel.  The job was just that, a job, and I'm looking for something a little more fulfilling.  So this last week of work marks a new beginning and the end of another.  In a few weeks I will leave Boulder for a climbing trip until the summer comes or my funds get to a predetermined limit.  I have never taken a journey like this, so it should be a wonderful exploration of countryside and self.  Hopefully I can post words and pictures along the way.  Arrevederci.

skimp tities

Dem tits are skimp.  Mah gran'mamy don told mah dat if yo ass don't catch da firs bus deres always anotha one.  Mah pops tol' mah dat you gosta test drive da whip befo' you cop it.  Flagscrap is aight, but Eldo is like tits on glass, DYNAMITE.  Curmudgeon went down yesterday, javid sandbagged me with some wrong beta, but once i got the proper shit down it went real quick.  bouldering is the shit, i miss bouldering quite a bit.  sometimes i axe myself why don't i boulder more often, but then i realize that i like climbing more that 8 feet.  Church was in session today at eldo, we were about 5 minutes late, but thats alright we had to get breakfast.  The congregation was still opening with the introductory song:  (Praise to the god in the highest).  So we roll in the parking lot and my main damie, da choir boi, Jason scoops us with his craghound and we embark to get reall religious on some climbing.  Blowin past boties on the approach, we needed jesus to forgive us of our sins.  After being forgivin fo' our trespasses, we start on some stemming shit to a tips crack, continue to another dihedral with some stemming then holler at some Land of Ra.  Ra was a saint who died in a car crash a few years back, true story.  You know some bodies only stay in church for an hour, but my family likes to stay all day, you know bible study, shoot the shit with the priest, confession, baptizisms, yea dats spelt right, confirmations, choir practice.  Climbing is not just a sport or a lifestyle but a religion.  

Copyright 11/2/08 

holla