The Life and Times

Gettin' Stout!

2012-02-02T02:54:00.002-05:00

New post from the grave! Impressively enough it's been over 15 months since the last post. I read a few old ones the other day and that's some decent blogging. I mean sometimes it's terrible and then there's manageable times, but on the whole it's alright. Well, the first day of Stout Month is over and that means one thing...MAN UP! There's only so man days to holler at amazing stouts at those special restaurants and I seriously regretting chopping the jihad beard. Still looking like Forest Gump most days but it's just not the same without the Jr. Jesus going on in the facial region. So the point of this month is to taste stouts, grow chops, and (for me) not rock climb. The first two result in lots of friends new and old and the last makes my shoulder happy. See, I separated my AC joint and I figured stretching and drinking beer for a month would be a beneficial way to spend February. Yay TeaM! That and pirating some music like it's my job couldn't hurt much during this shortened month. Well, that's that and I'm just sayin'.

Clarks

2010-10-16T23:35:00.008-04:00

I read something the other day while I was stalk-searching other people's blogs and found it to be insightfully true. The difficulty in blogging lies in being able to do so even when life becomes complicated and overpoweringly busy. Obviously, I'm failing, but not that many people care anyway. Usually, when people are asked what they have been doing lately, most give a generic response. "Not too much." Some might give a small detail such as, "I've been working a lot." Well, I won't do that. This post has been long overdue and calls for specifics. I'll rewind far enough back that everything will become crystal clear.

A Christmas climbing vacation last year ended before it ever really began, quite frankly. I had an emergency surgery and decided to leave my job as a live-in nanny for more income among other reasons. Immediately I was homeless, but at least I was smart enough to take care of my massive doctor's bills by ensuring my financial well-being. I say this in a grandiose way, but in fact I had told my part time job that I was now free to work as many hours as they could schedule; the more, the better. So began a long road of physical and financial recovery.

Approximately six hours before the emergency room.

The first four months of this year were spent working 50 hours a week without health benefits or paid time off all while living on my gracious friend's living room couch. By the way, thanks again Greg, Sarah, and Max. Things would certainly be different without that grace period. Still, though, I was without a permanent place to live and trying to prove myself everyday at work. I wanted desperately to have benefits, a "regular" schedule, and a room of my own. Slowly but surely I went from being just another part-timer to a real work horse. There were weeks that I slept in the stockroom or in my car simply because I had no other place to go and couldn't afford a different situation. This isn't the most glorious quote, but Mat Kearney once said, "nothing worth having ever goes down easy." I thought this many nights as I slept alone and sometimes sick in these places.

Some nights I slept in the mall just like Corduroy the bear.

Over those months I was given the classic run around by my boss and my boss' boss. My district manager continually told me to improve certain aspects of my job and "we'll see in a month" where I would be. Each month I was always in the same position. I had improved, but it was not quite what they were wanted. (Side note: what does indirect jaron like that mean?) By early summer I had been through two different stores and six bosses for various reasons. Full time associates and assistant managers were hired and quit within months, yet I was still a part-timer working more than 40 hours a week. By April I was literally knocking it out of the park every day I came to work. At the end of each month a top 20 list is posted for several sales categories, and I finally made it. Albeit the category was socks and I was a mere 16th best in the country, I was still proud of my accomplishment especially given my housing circumstances.

A brief pause for a snapshot in that first few months.

My brother came and visited in the middle of May. It was a breath of fresh air, even if it was for only a week. Some how things are always alright no matter how terrible they may seem if he is there. The presence of someone or lack thereof is a powerful thing. I realized my struggle at Clarks was just beginning and it would be a similar test to surviving architecture school. Amazingly enough, I found a great place to live in late May and was no longer sleeping in my car. I quickly settled in and went to work for Clarks even more dedicated.

The top 20 list for June was posted and I couldn't believe my eyes. I knew I had an unreal month, but to be on the list for a third time in a row was great. However, this time it was not for socks alone, but name was on the list in four of the six rankings. The most incredulous part was that I was at the top of the list in the two most important and difficult categories. In six months I had gone from and average, hard-working part-timer to the best shoe and accessory salesman in the country for Clarks. What a special moment. I finally felt like I had achieved something. There was a bonafide period where no one in the country was better than me at my job, plain and simple. In fact, I was almost 50 percent better than the second place finishers among 1000 sales associates, give or take a few. I felt an enormous sense of pride and an increasingly strong desire to do better the next month.

Sometimes, all I can think is how to sell more.

From the beginning of June to the present, I have approached each day or work and climbing the same. I want to be better than I was the previous day. It may be better in a different way, but I want to be constantly improving. Statistically, July was not as absurdly off the top of the charts, but for the second straight month I was number one in the two most improtant categories. This was the point where I wanted a personal goal of being the number one salesman in the company for the year. It will be February before I know for certain, but the numbers are looking as if that goal could be attainable. To be the best in back to back months made me realize that I was not a fluke salesman and I had dozens of customer testimonials to that fact as well. Unfortunately, my hours were being drastically reduced until somehow I was left with only four hours in the first week of August. How could this be? Why me? How did I slip through the cracks? What would I do?

Well, I came forth with an earnest and sincere plea. How can I be treated like this after I have done everything that has been asked? My boss' boss decided to give me full-time status and benefits, but I would have to travel between three stores for the hours. This was not exactly what I wanted, but it was better than no job at all. Two more months passed and I continued on my torrid pace at work and climbing. Every day off I would make the hike at Lincoln Lake for my sanity, and each week would end with me wondering what the other top sales associates had produced. By the end of September, I had sunk no lower than 10th in shoes, accessories, and socks for the entire summer. These numbers were posted under various managers at three of the five stores in Colorado and covering various retail seasons. Unfortunately some things do not change.

As of today I am back to working as a part-time employee at the three stores in order to accrue enough hours to be classified as a full time associate. Again, full time associates have been hired and fired/quit in the past 10 months and I have never really been given a chance. There has been a great deal of introspection and questioning on my part and for the most part to no avail. When you are at a point where it is almost impossible to improve what, then, do you do? I guess this leaves me with a suggestion that came as a byproduct of surviving architecture school, which was my last ordeal similar to this and my first serious strife in life. When you feel you have given all that you can possibly give, step back and realize that you must now begin to work smarter instead of harder.

Lincoln Lake photo courtesy of gregmionske.com

Park 5-13

2010-07-26T16:04:00.007-04:00

Park visits five through thirteen have been a lot of different things. Some days projects were obliterated and other days the warm-ups felt terrifying and impossible. It has been a solo effort and a mission of exploration at times, while others were filled with so much routine and people that it seemed like a gym. New friends have been made and old ones reunited. History lessons from old masters were imparted upon eager ears. These are a few of the reasons why the Park is so appealing to me. Oh, and all your levels of fitness sky-rocket, but you are left as an exhausted zombie shell of your form self. Usually, I would tell you who sent what and which days it happened, but not this time. Instead, I will tell snippets of stories. They will be teasers, if you will.

Work has been done, and old problems were solved by fresh eyes. Someone pooped in a bag and kept it. Two people hiked to Lower Chaos in 23 minutes (no running). Several dozen tourists watched someone jump into Lake Hiyaha naked. Someone laid in piss. Someone hiked to Upper Chaos with 50 lbs. (that was a mondo and a madrock pad). Someone supposedly was carrying a tent, a belly boat, or a tree band-aid but not a crashpad. Someone literally used the restroom on a climb. Someone continues to get a parking spot at the Bear Lake parking lot on their first attempt each trip. Someone played a banjo in the Upper Chaos meadow. Well, that's pretty much what's been happening in the Park as of late. Here are a few pictures for staring pleasures.

Mt Evans 5

2010-06-26T01:06:00.006-04:00

Evans was wonderful today. There were tons of people, just like I like it, so there's lots of pads and little worrying about what a fall might be like. Sunny weather, breezey, and sometimes overcast meant great climbing and tanning conditions. Unfortunately, I burned, but it's a small price to pay for an awesome day with new and old friends. Today was also special because it was my first trip to Evans in which I did not go to the Dali Wall. Instead I chose everything else in Area A and we made our first visit to Area B this season. In general, Mt Evans feels like a wilderness, but as soon as you arrive in Area B you have no more doubts that you are nowhere near civilization. Beautiful, serene, and intriguing describe what Area B is like if you have never been. I didn't actually complete many climbs today, but I was falling off of the last move on nearly everything. It's hard to accept such narrow failures, but in such defeats were monumental gains, which were only short-sighted by not doing the last move from the beginning. Here are some photos from Dan Michels and Annie Tedesco of what was climbed today.

Sometimes just getting started feels impossible.

Sometimes you grab the last hold and still don't finish.

Atleast the sunsets are always rewarding for all the hiking.

Mt Evans 4

2010-06-25T01:30:00.004-04:00

So this season, I am choosing to put numbers with the posts for The Park and Evans since I will probably be going to each at least once a week and it should be a nice way of keeping tabs on how many visits are made. Today Annie, my roommate, and I made her first visit to Evans. Needless to say she enjoyed it much more than The Park. She topped out her first boulder in The Ladder, which I believe to be a true classic in Colorado and put in some pretty good work on some other 3s. Hopefully, she isn't too sore in the morning and keeps up the good work as of late. Below is a picture of her trying Cherry Top Pick, or some other name, near Seurat.

I however got no points again today. I see this as being a reoccurring theme this season, but I'm okay with that. By the words of Ty Landman, "sometimes you got to kill a cat to catch a dog." What a true philosopher and a guy who knows how to consume boulder problems. Today I opted for the Chris Schulte tour of Area A and commenced work on Ground Control and Child Stars. As it turns out, not that many people have sent either, and both problems are of a fairly similar style (roof climbing, compression, slopers, and lip encounters). Both problems turned out well and I hope to be doing them in the next few visits. I wouldn't mind it taking a few more sessions on both if I could do them the same day! Well, I shouldn't get my hopes up too much, because I got spanked on Silverback. Depressing, but that's how it goes most of the time.

Also, a bit of motivation never hurts.

Park 4

2010-06-23T01:57:00.005-04:00

Here is an image of a great arete in Lower Chaos. I'm not sure of the name, but it's next to Deep Puddle Dynamics, which is another classic Park climb. For some reason I can't seem to climb proportionally equal boulders in the Park as I can in other areas in so far as difficulty is concerned. Something about the library of holds there seems to capitalize on all of my weaknesses and my strengths rarely come into play. However, I love going and being there. Even going to simply warm-up and take pictures is wonderful to me. Well, hopefully my Park climbing will change soon and I will continue to take pictures of friends and acquaintances that remind me of such an special place. Also, there is a picture of Skyscraper which is a complete death wish of a boulder problem without snow and tons of pads. I am comfortable taking pictures of it for now.

Seasons

2010-06-18T18:24:00.007-04:00

Seasons are a wonderful thing. The changing of weather can be quick and abrupt or gentle and graceful. No matter, what makes it special is that the change is never the same regardless it countless occurences. In the month and a half since I last wrote, it feels wholistcally like summer. Strong sunlight, long days, storms, and new smells dominate where chilly nights and first flowers resided. Quite a bit has changed for me as well. I live in a new place with a new person. I am constantly fighting being sick, but climbing outside is now the overwhelming desire when not working. Work no longer takes up my whole life, which lends time elsewhere. New Year's resolutions were made that include getting a new job, so hopefully the beginning of this season will be fruitful in that aspect. Changed can be frightening if not embraced, but with courage it can be cataclysmic. I'm hoping for the latter in my relationships, work, and climbing.

Here are some pictures from the last month and a half.

Booking It

2010-05-02T22:21:00.004-04:00

Running with the Buffaloes was finished this past week! It's a must read for the Boulderite who runs. A great story about a team, a mission, and a fall in Boulder, Colorado. Reading about all the places the team would run and the things they would do was more motivation in the bank for my running. At the same time, it made and makes me long for the days of team sports. Climbing and running are fun things to do, but I sure miss playing things with other people.

Yesterday I decided to give the Boulder Public Library a second chance. After my first visit, it was deemed that no good architecture books were inside there. Upon a second look, it turns out that there is definitely some possibility for some good reading. However, as the saying goes, you can't judge a book by it's cover. Thus, I chose a thin, tattered one about architecture and another on life after the city. The first one, The Tao of Architecture, was finished today. The book references a Laotzu parable at least once on every page, which means an abundance of thinking to be done for a book with with so few pages. Not the most interesting, but some very good points were made; a nice reintroduction into the world of architecture. Well, that's about all the writing I have time for today. There will be another tomorrow.

Reading

2010-04-23T13:52:00.002-04:00

More reading as of late...Running with the Buffaloes by Chris Lear. This is the new book on the plate. Lots of running books recently means lots of excitement for returning to running. This doesn't mean I have forgotten about climbing, but sometimes you need to do other things. I have completed three untimed 5 milers at a steady pace and two timed shorter runs. I am against listening to music and running and against wearing a watch. Well, not so much against the watch but not knowing your pace keeps you listening to you body and not focusing on numbers (I already do that enough in climbing).

This running book makes the fourth in two months, and after the first I made the decision to begin running again. Running is liberating, an investment, and a struggle. Most of all, it is rewarding. I was told once that people are less likely to achieve something if they tell others about small successes en route. However, I chose to begin running again about two months ago with a track workout. Four quarters at a stead pace with a quarter jogged as rest between laps. I could not complete the workout, but the purpose was to measure the current fitness level. Four runs, three books, and two months later, it was time to "check in" again. I managed a 5:55 mile on a treadmill at the gym. Certainly not a glorious time for the masses, but it was a personal best for me. The best part about it was setting the treadmill to a pace to follow and realizing that I've been running sizeable portions of my longer training runs at a higher heartrate. It would be nice to run a sub 5 minute mile sometime this summer, maybe even a 4:30, but the joy of covering ground is enough for now.

The climbing is on the up and up as well, as Target would say. I've been exclusively sport climbing for about three weeks now. Prior to that it was more or less thirty days in a row of weight lifting. It seems the running and sport climbing are working well together for now, and this is a wonderful time of year to be living in the Republic of Boulder.

Once a Runner

2010-04-18T03:02:00.002-04:00

I finally received my disposables back. Disposable cameras that are left to the elements for an undetermined amount of time and then placed in the muted bio-system of a car produce visually terrible pictures. However, more than a few had a bit of sentimental value. I suppose it should be that way if it takes a person twelve months to take roughly twelve pictures. So none will make this blog, but you might just get one in the mail!

On a side note from this "weekend," which was really not a calendar weekend but a retail weekend, Greg Mionske and I both acquired our first pairs of Jordans. Needless to say they improved our basketball skills exponentially.

Well, I've been working a ton the past week and a half, turned down a job as a tax claims investigator (who wants to help people figure out how they mismanaged a part of their lives for 40+ hr/wk), and started sport climbing for real this time. I saw the bodies exhibit at the Denver Arts and Sciences Museum, which was too cool and such poignant day that I was nearly reminiscing about everything as it was happening. Crazy. I paid another month of medical bills and finished another book. Once a Runner by John L. Parker Jr. is the best book I have read this year. It is second only to The Little Prince on my all-time list, and this is quite a statement for those who understand. I can't remember the last time I sat in a silent room and laughed so much and felt such an overwhelming since of exhilaration as training regimens were described, practical jokes unfolded, and feelings were illustrated. Beautiful, insightful, hilarious, brilliant, and inspiring. Hope the sequel is somewhere near the same ballpark.

One of these days I will have pictures again. And one of these days I will climb outside again, but I'm in no rush for either at the moment.

Born to Run

2010-04-07T22:44:00.002-04:00

I finished yet another book today; Christopher McDougall's Born to Run . To anyone who has known me for some time, you will understand the magnitude of me reading a book for pleasure. This one makes it my fourth in two months. Who knew reading could be so compelling! It's the slow drip IV version of the television. Wonderful entertainment.
Born to Run is a nationally accalimed best seller, but this doesn't always mean a person is going to like it. Take The Kite Runner for example. I couldn't even finish 20 pages before I was wholistically uninterested. Anyway, the book was wonderful. The author tells the story of the development of American ultra running and parallels that with the rich running history of a Mexican tribe known as the Tarahumara. Having read this, I am definitely inclined to question my eating habits, run more, and how Michael Hickman's life story sounded as if it could be my own. Strange how insightful and thought-provoking reading can be.

Disposables

2010-04-04T14:25:00.002-04:00

A year ago this month I strained my back in Bishop. Had I not done that I probably would've continued to climb in Bishop until it was miserably hot. I fell head over heels in love with the area as soon as I arrived. It marked the beginning of a special time in my life. Time with myself, time to explore in every sense of the word's meaning; time to take pictures, meet people, read, get strong, and suck every drop of marrow from each day. It was bliss, but the injury made me leave.

I made the trip the "long way" to Yosemite and continued the journey with only a map and a few days supply of food. I had no expectations and lived each day for the day, not knowing where the roads would take me or where I would sleep. One of these paths brought a disposable camera to my possession. It had 12 exposures already taken on it when I found it, and this past Friday I finally took the last one. It is time to get it developed and see the treasures that have been stored away for months. I wish my life was still that concise and simplified, but I'm finding that it's okay to establish dependencies in relationships, places, and even things.

365 Day Heartbeat

2010-03-30T00:42:00.002-04:00

Well, another day of weight training is in the books. Though, it wasn't much of a question today since I was awake at 4:30. For the record, weight training is mind-numbingly boring. I'm not sure how I ever worked out for 2-3 hours a day for a whole summer. Too much free time. Anyway, it will hopefully have some benefits and maybe even give my heart that extra fitness to get below 40 beats/minute.

So, I watched 7 Pounds with Will Smith this morning before the sunrise. An absolutely wonderful movie. I also watched the sunrise for the first time in many months. This is sad mostly because this time last year I was watching the sun rise each morning and taking hundreds of pictures every day. "Well, some things change, awe but some things stay the same." I also used to draw, climb outside, and send lots of snail mail. Wish some things didn't change. However, I am still sleeping in my sleeping bag, which is more than less a year and a half strong. That said, it's time for some famous Mionske flap jacks, a movie, and that sleeping bag.

Side note: Greg Mionske finally bench pressed over 100lbs. and Rob Gonazales dunked a regulation basketball on a regulation goal twice this afternoon. Watch out ladies or else BOOM!

"The Freakin Weekend..."

2010-03-28T22:15:00.003-04:00

Well, the weekend is over and I didn't have to work for once. First weekend off in 3 months and first time to have two days off since I can't remember when. Anyway, lots of fun has been had. I managed to get my first sunburn in Boulder today and play some basketball outside for the first time in 2010. Did the Pearl Street shuffle with Greg and Rob, and watched some basketball at the Lazy Dog. Slept past 8am two days in a row and have my workout streak up to 5 days. Stinks to take time off from climbing, but working can be a little amusing. Went out Friday night with Pierre and Jasmine from Fayetteville. Lots of fun! Got to visit Verve yesterday, which was nice. Got some new clothes from them which means I no longer have to weat the same pair of shorts and underwear. Now if Verve only made basketball jerseys. Not that jerseys are the most performance oriented, but LeBron seems to perform just fine in them. Well, at least I have more options for the upcomming summer bouldering season in the alpine country and don't have to do laundry twice a week.

Spring Break

2010-03-22T12:27:00.002-04:00

"Pack your bags; we're going places."

As spring sluggishly awakens, this was all I could think of last year. Unfortunately, we're all a year older and everyone seems to be where I was last year: Bishop, CA. So no SB10 for me. No party barges, no tropical drinks, no desert heat, and no open road unless you count an 11 mile stretch of Hwy 36 to and from work. No adventures to be had with one day off a week, only the few spare hours allowing for the tying of loose ends that form my life. However, hard work does pay off sometimes. All the work over the past three months has earned me a promotion, which I took but still would rather be doing something else. As for climbing, the results of "hard work" are often bittersweet and gray. Hard work in athletics is ambiguous to say the least, since it's all relative to the individual. It feels like I've been "working hard," but it's hard to quantify these results when I haven't tested myself outside in months and I'm always on the verge of being seriously injured. Well, no time for "time off" as long as I can still do something, but with so many people leaving town for the week it does feel like a break of sorts. Happy Spring Break (if you have one)!

Giving It Away A Piece At A Time

2010-03-20T01:05:00.004-04:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4p0M8Xl938k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21HdOz5YYsg

Here is a post with two songs. I like them. So listen, and if you haven't heard them maybe you will like them as well.

Let There be Light

2010-02-22T01:31:00.004-05:00

Over the past month, Greg and I have talked at great length over many meals and drinks about the future of our photography over the next months and year to come, as we will be living together. As a pair, we were chosen to shoot a fund-raising 5K race for the University of Colorado Triathalon Team. It was a great experience, and certainly an achievement. Our website has existed for 24 hours and we're already making a profit! Hopefully, there will be many wonderful and exciting things to come from Sundown Studios. Check out the photos from the race on our photoshelter account here... http://www.photoshelter.com/c/sundownstudios

This might not be the most politically correct, but this is how it went...

David: "How did the creation of light go in Genesis?"
Greg: "God said let there be light, so we took some f***** photos."
David: "Great, Greg. You're gonna make the national team."

Between the Trees

2010-02-14T02:57:00.003-05:00

Finally! My climbing life has blossomed. My brother, Jason (or John if you prefer), sent me Keith Bradbury's (unclesomebody.com) video of him and Ty Landman crushing in the magical forest of Fontainebleau. My climbing received a Ronnie Coleman-sized shot in the arm after I watched the film 8 times in two days and back to back the first time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWubJ5OrmjE

This is going to sound stupid of me, but I will try to explain. The film is not state-of-the-art, but it does feature a place which I would love to visit. This is the first and only extended piece of footage that I've seen of the "Forest," as it's called. I am fascinated by how people imagine or perceive things and how this changes upon the initial interaction and subsequent ones. Absolutely fascinating! Anyway, that's another post. The point is, this movie allowed my mind the freedom to inform my body. I believe the mind is the strongest/weakest muscle in climbing; depending on who you are. If the mind and the body operate seemlessly, then the possibilites are endless. I have already experienced this new connection and my eyes are wide with eyebrows raised. Michael Jordan, Ted Williams, Usain Bolt, and Michael Phelps have all performed under a state of hyper awareness. When the mind and body can understand quickly enough to slow down reality, reaction times plummet and the realm of possible becomes a suggestion. Most people would call it " the zone." Jordan would say the basket felt as big as the ocean and Williams would confess that it looked like a beach ball en route to home plate. However, to put it universally, hyper awareness during performance feels effortless and is the epitome of beauty.

By the time I write again, I'll have probably watched it twice as much and may have learned to levitate.

Photos

2010-02-12T16:48:00.006-05:00

A close friend of mine (gregmionske.com) is taking a journalism class at the moment which allows him acess to a wide variety of professional level Nikon lens and cameras. This is perfect for Greg, as he is interning for the Fort Collins Colorodoan and inherently the rest of the Associated Press since his photos are so good. He covers the athlete of the week for high school athletics, general sporting events, and random local assignments. Needless to say, he's taking advantage of all the new equipment at his disposal. Here are some links to some of his online galleries for the paper and a few shots from our trip to Eldorado Canyon yesterday.

http://www.coloradoan.com/apps/pbcs.dll/gallery?Avis=G2&Dato=20100208&Kategori=CONNECTIONS&Lopenr=2080801&Ref=PH

http://www.coloradoan.com/apps/pbcs.dll/gallery?Avis=G2&Dato=20100204&Kategori=SPORTS&Lopenr=2040801&Ref=PH

http://www.coloradoan.com/apps/pbcs.dll/gallery?Avis=G2&Dato=20100127&Kategori=CONNECTIONS&Lopenr=1270801&Ref=PH

Someone had to be the stand-in while learning how to use a flash.

Patience

2010-01-28T01:10:00.004-05:00

What does this word mean and why is it so hard to achieve? Wow! Tough questions to answer and even harder to put into action; however, sometimes the best action is none at all. Waiting happens to be exactly what it means to be patient. Sleeping, marinating, ignoring, and diverting attention are all forms of waiting, though discipline serves as the best solution to the "waiting game." As it turns out, everyone is always waiting for something or someone: buses, food, loved ones, or even people to hurry. Fortunately, a desire is granted each time you are done waiting. When put that way, it sounds as if the "game" is little more than a microwave dinner. Well, sometimes it can be that simple. Though sometimes waiting can be loaded with strife, anxiety, and despair.
So when you first realize that you will no longer be waiting and your desire is a reality, what do you do? Elation has many different forms. Enough ranting. I am finished with waiting, at least for this year, and I am smiling from ear to ear.

"a dream came to me silently in the night..."

The Last Lecture

2010-01-17T04:44:00.003-05:00

Randy Pausch has a wonderful story to tell. I just read his book and can honestly say that it's the first book I haven't been able to put down since The Little Prince. Touching, inspiring, and encouraging. To live a life in-line with this book's message would certainly not be one wasted. This is an adendum to my New Year's resolutions.

On an unrelated note, here's a line from a favourtie song of mine.
"Then the snow started falling. We were stuck out in your car. You were rubbing both my hands, chewing on a candy bar. You said, "Ain't this just like the present to be showing up like this." As a moon waned to crescent we started to kiss... and I said I know it well.

First Day of School

2010-01-12T01:37:00.002-05:00

Unfortunately I am no longer in school, as I have graduated. So today was another day and not one loaded with firsts. The update since the last post goes like this in an truncated fashion. Drive all night to El Paso. Touch but don't climb. Go to the emergency room because I'm dying, or so I think. Parent come to the hospital on Christmas. Have surgery. Drive back to Denver and stay with them in a hotel for a week to recover. Spend time with friends. Quit being a nanny. Go back to selling shoes full-time. Begin climbing again. Move out. Move in. First day of class, but no more school.

Now, a moment for some New Year's Resolutions, as they are much needed and should finally be documented in an attempt to force adherence.
1. I've heard this from several people already, but drink more water. This especially applies to me as it relates to my surgery.
4. Get a new job.
5. Take 3 pictures that I completely love.
6. Climb something that would impress me.
7. Climb 8B and not v13, because it sounds wonderful that way.
8. Sell out for someone I love.
9. Allow myself to be comfortable with commitment.

Winter Break

2009-12-23T01:59:00.002-05:00

Since I began my nannying job in May of this past year, I have yet to take a single day of vacation. Therefore, a trip to Hueco Tanks for some climbing over the next week is much overdue. Everyone will be there, and I do mean everyone. Well not really, because not everyone really can and the brother won't be there. Anyway, lots of people from Colorado and lots who are in the friend department. I cannot wait to roadtrip again. I love it so much, even if it's for a week. Hueco was my first trip that lasted more than 2 days, and 2 years ago was the last time I was really there. This means I will be envoking the Graduation album from Kanye as the background music to my life over the next week. Lots to see, an overwhelming amount to climb, not enough skin or muscles to get it all done, and literally thousands of photos to take. It's going to be a great trip. I'll be back in a week. Hopefully there will be photos to post, stories to tell, and some finely knitted garmets to display.

Sacrifices

2009-12-14T00:26:00.003-05:00

The past week of being a single parent with two kids got me thinking. A lot. At the end of 5 days I felt the, overwhelming at times, burden of a responsibility which urges me to give "my kids" the best. This is not so much concerned with worldly things as it is time, love, and attention. This week has made me feel proud, exhausted, lonely, frustrated, accomplished, caged, and elated. The life of a parent seems to be a true rollercoaster. One that I am not ready to truly ride. This also brings up the question of sacrificing my priorities. A hard pill to swallow on the idea and even more difficult to commit to doing. Seems, for the time being, I am still in the same boat. Lots of thoughts and so little time to express and discuss.

Fatherhood

2009-12-11T00:01:00.002-05:00

As a public service announcement to those who stumble across this blog, do not have sex until you are ready to be a parent. Being a parent when you are not truly ready to give up your desires, freedom, hobbies, and social life blows. Your children's joys become your joy. So before I go any further, I would like to thank my parents. They were perfect in every sense of the word when it came to my upbringing. Thankyou for all your sacrifices and all the times you gave us to Grandmother and Gramps. As children, we wished you needed a break more often.

From Wednesday to Sunday of this week the parents of the family for which I nanny are in San Francisco with their youngest son. Thus, I am left with the two oldest boys. I now know what it's like to be a working, single parent with desires for something greater in life. This job has taught me that I definitely want children, that I will be an excellent father someday down the road, that children must be taught to use manners and behave, and that family time is of utmost importance. Also, George Karl of the Denver Nuggets and I agree that shaking a baby is not an option. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yanpWXl9kRg NEVER.

So, it's been mustache-freezing cold in Boulder for the past week or two, which means inside activities. When I haven't been running my daddy daycare or selling shoes, I've been training at Movement quite a bit for some winter climbing at Hueco tanks State Park. I'm excited to say the least. Well, hopefully the moon, stars, and galaxies align and I get to have some off days in the upcoming months.

One Sixth

2009-12-02T23:40:00.003-05:00

I spend one sixth of my total hours each week standing in front of this board with these holds. This is my most dominate, time-consuming relationship outside of work and sleep. Sometimes I pause and talk to people, but for the most part it's full throttle, no holds bared, all out war to succeed at whatever I decide is the task. I love the simplicity of the party tricks, a few moves, and failing because I am physically incapable. It is in front of this board that I realize my body has blatant deficiencies, inabilities, and a blessing or two. It is a beautiful thing to be constantly failing and, at the same time, gaining a deeper understanding of how your body works.

Rollin, Rollin, Rollin

2009-11-08T23:18:00.002-05:00

There is a song that goes with the headline, but since all my media is on virus lock-down you will have to youtube it yourself. My computer has a terrible virus. "Boo, you whore." - Mean Girls.

This means more time do more rewarding things like punting on Flagstaff Mtn. I have a terrible disease which causes me to think I can climb any boulder problem. Well, maybe this is a blessing in disguise about 5 years early, once all my ingrams and physicals abilities manifest themselves. There are 4 climbs I have chosen to do before the New Year. These are not the greatest, most beautiful, most attainable, or even ones that I like. Sometimes the only reason is because it's there. Actually, that's a lie...because it's close. Anyway the winners are Trice, Apochalypse, Cage Free, and Free Range. Maybe you know them; maybe you don't. Who cares about the grade, who cares about the name even. I have chosen them because they are essentially two climbs with traverses, which were added to the beginning to make them harder, to produce 4 lines. Sounds a little like the pre-Arkansas visit a month-and-a-half ago. So I tried Trice yesterday and got spanked for a slew of reasons, but that's whatever. Sometimes it takes a visit to realise what you're against. Hopefully, next time will be a different result. Thye reason for trying these particular climbs is mostly "because;" however, they are intended to the the final chapter of my 2009 climbing year. If half of these get completed, it will be the exclamation to a year of improvement, injury, training, and growth. The second if is, if I can continue this rampage of mental growth, training, understanding, and systematically attempting to eliminate weaknesses, I will easily be one the top climbers in the world. Some people are laughing right now, or at least raising eyebrows. If completing half of the first task wasn't arduous enough, deciding to throw another 12 months on top of it seems truly impossible.

I'm a firm supporter of believing. Seems like if I believe enough, then it happens. Well, I've been exercising that since I wasn't sure if I would make it through architecture school 4 years ago. Turns out, it almost always comes true and quicker than I hoped. Keep your ears to the streets for the next year. Who knows, I might not have kids anymore, climb impossible rocks, and be the King of England. Well, why not try.

Schtuff

2009-10-27T02:51:00.002-04:00

It's been a while. Yep. Seems like the world is getting older and stuff has happened. Max trashed his ankle. Psychedelia came and went. I almost quit my job on two consecutive days last week, but then decided that would be financial suicide. Halloween is coming and Thanksgiving will have happened before too long. Jimmy and Brion are climbing things. Half of the people in the US are supposed to get swine flu. Thank goodness I already had it. And an Arkansas woman climbed a v8?!

That's right, I got the dirty from Jason and he said among other news about two weeks ago, Morgan Gattis became the first woman from Arkansas to climb a v8. Crazy! Well, maybe not really to most people, but it pretty much blows my mind. Orbital Mechanics was the victim at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Jason said it was pretty much domination once the infallible beta was installed. Well again congrats Morgan, but it's time to climb a 9. Yep that's always been my attitude and I'm sticking to my guns.

Another thing you should stick to are your morals. Last week was a tough one, not so much for me but the people around me made it difficult. Husbands beating wives makes me realize things I will never do and things I don't want to condone. Well, can't fully support thos ideals until I have a real job. Otherwise, I would be actively making myself homeless. Dumb.

Well, the Yankees made it again. Hope they can pull out a win this year. If not, you can be sure they will buy better players, which I love.

Autumnal Life

2009-10-14T23:38:00.004-04:00

Fall colors have nearly come and gone in Boulder. Sad times that it happened so quickly, but it was wonderful for a day or two. Here are a few pics of this one place near where I live. Lovely, really. White fences, blue and yellow homes, and trees of red and green. I missed the best of it while I was sick, but what can you do. You can however not get swine flu anymore because getting it once makes you immune!

Saw a soccer match last night. It wasn't much of a match, but that's how it goes when everyone in Denver gets dominated by the same team every fall. I was rooting for some of my favorite people. A cold night for soccer, but wonderful nonetheless. A perfect 4 hours of my life.

Do you ever get the feeling that everything is about to change and, when I say everything, I mean everything in life. Maybe it's the fall air, maybe because each day is coming closer to my favorite time if the year, or maybe everything is about to change because I want it to happen. I really do hope all the changes are wonderful and exciting ones. Since I came off the road five and half months ago, I have been participating in a life that I am probably displeased with 75% of the time. I sleep 10-12 hours a day because that's what makes time pass. This is not me and I really do hope for many things to be different than how they currently exist.

Breath-taking trees

The red maples leaves are best next to their green and yellow counterparts.

When I tell you the other red ones were already as red as they could possibly be, maybe you will begin to comprehend the special perfection of this one small bunch.

The Bubble

2009-10-06T19:43:00.002-04:00

Everyone in Boulder knows everyone else. This is common knowledge. On second thought, it's more like 6 degrees of Kevin Bacon, but 2 degrees will suffice for Boulder. Sometimes this is not so great. However, as long as nothing awkward develops, you get to see tons of people you know on various levels. This is probably one of my most favorite things about Boulder. Meeting up with all kinds of people to do anything thinkable.

Well, at the moment I'm sick. Not sure what it is, but I've been on bedroom lock down for over two days. It feels like prison, but if that's what it takes to get better then fine. Yesterday I sent off for a revision of my portfolio. Hopefully this one is perfect. Also, I've been watching mad amounts of movies. Yesterday, it was The Breakup, Hell Boy 2, Mummy 2, Missed Call, Forgetting Sarah Marshall, and some love movie which I can't remember at the moment. Today I've seen Vertical Limit, The Sting, and Kit Kittredge. None that were that great, but I actually shed a tear in Kit Kittredge. I couldn't believe it either. Well, I am caring for kids these days and getting a bit older, so the story goes. Hopefully I will be well soon and able to take advantage of the wonderful fall weather in Boulder.

"It's about to get really good before it gets bad." Dave Graham

Horseshoe Hell

2009-10-03T17:33:00.006-04:00

The Ranch is a wonderful place. Take that back, everywhere in Northwest Arkansas becomes a special place as summer eases into fall and fall gives way to the perfection of winter. I will always have a fondness for this area of the country. It is a land where almost none of the climbing has been discovered, but almost all of it is locked up by private owners. Illicit walls and boulders that exist only in the imagination and your hopes.

Friday night Jason, Rob, Greg, and I slept on the porch of a cabin at the Ranch. Cool crisp night air and more stars than could be counted gave us much needed rest. The comp began sharply at 10am the next morning. Pledges were made between partners on not killing one another and the shotgun was fired. A mad scramble for respective routes left the lodge deserted. Jason and I retired to the Idahos to get the bouldering started for the day. Unfortunately, it was warm and there were surprisingly over 20 people at both of the warm up areas. We tried and tried, but neither of us could get motivated. Still feeling the accomplishment from the previous day we decided to watch a bit of the comp in the North Forty and perhaps try climbing again in the late afternoon. Everything came together around 5 and Jason put away Orbital Mechanics v8 in several minutes, while I found myself falling repeatedly on the last move of Kneeling before Power. After 5 tries, I was exhausted and chose to sit out the last one of the day. Jason, Ben Putman, and Sarah Orens joined forces in an effort to send Orb Weaverv8, but everyone was found lacking.

Dinner was had and we returned to the North Forty to watch some night climbing. Friends showed arrived and a good time was shared under head lamps. As we turned in for the night, the comp was barely half over for those competing.

Orbital Mechanics

Sarah on Orb Weaver

Lauren and Christine still excited about climbing after 14hrs of the comp.

Horseshoe Hell

2009-10-01T11:26:00.006-04:00

Lots to tell about the week long trip to Arkansas. Out of the blocks, Lauren and I looked like a scene from Home Alone as we ran to catch our plane to Tulsa after a huge luggage debacle. Well, we made it and Jason drove 100 miles to get us to Fayetteville by midnight. Whew. Thursday was low-key, but Bikes Blues and BBQ was in town. This means 200,000 bikes and bikers. Loud to say the least. Friday was spent preparing for the weekend competition at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Lauren was deposited in the early pm, while Jason and I left for Fontaine Red to check out a "cave feature."

We both tried Chunk up the Deuce, but it was too warm for one of the holds, so we switched gears to Fred's Roof. I wasn't all that keen on it, but Jason was close from his first day on it several weeks ago. In no time at all we had done all the moves. Jason had given several good attempts from the ground and felt like a good rest was in order before the send. He said he would give it one more good burn so as not to forget the subtleties of each position before the rest. He pulled on and soon found himself at the last jump. I told him this was the time. He loaded his legs, pounced, roared, caught the final hold and we both screamed. Though I didn't show it, as I hadn't done the problem yet, I can't recall a time I was more excited in my climbing career and it wasn't even for me. By doing this problem, he and I became the 2nd and 3rd Arkansan climbers to climb an Arkansas v11. I hope more big things will happen for him this year. That night we drove to Jasper for dinner and then to the Ranch tired and emotionally exhausted, but feeling more than accomplished.

The first large move on Fred's Roof

Sunset on the drive back to the Ranch.

Vedauwoo

2009-09-20T16:20:00.003-04:00

Yesterday morning I left for Vedauwoo with a friend. We arrived around 11 and met up with 14 other friends psyched and prepared, or so they thought, to crush. Let me say that Vedauwoo is a terrible place if you have little or no technique, or if you cannot cope with losing chunks of skin on the occasional problem. That said, for everyone else it is fantastic. A lifetime of rock to be climbed 15 mintues from the University of Wyoming and gorgeous scenery, especially in the fall.

Fall was a week away from being in full effect yesterday, but it was almost perfect nonetheless. I was unable to try any of the projects I had made note of when I visited two weeks ago, but myself and quite a few others came up with some nice sends. Climbing with such a large group of people is interesting. Taking quality pictures is almost impossible, which is a shame since there are some many people to photograph. On the upside, there are tons of people giving support and a rediculous amount of crash pads. I really enjoy climbing with all of these people and I wish it could happen once every weekend. Everyone always seems to get a lot accomplished on the days when we have a massive squad of people. Employee of the day was up for grabs as Anne Tedesco did the Gill Problem, which no one else could do, and Said Parirohk, who gave around 20 attempts on the Information Super Highway dyno and eventually stuck it! Dan Michels got viedo of me doing this dyno, so hopefully you can see how it goes.

Arkansas!

2009-09-20T16:05:00.004-04:00

This Wednesday I'll be leaving with my friend Lauren for the Tulsa airport. We're going to Arkansas again! This time it is for Horshoe Hell. Should be a great competition for her and the rest of my friends that will be there. As usual, I will not be climbing more than 15 moves and will not be using a rope. I'm really excited to see my brother again and get some great climbing time together. I have several smaller goals while I am there, but two main ones: Chunck up the Deuce and Loved by Few Hated by Many. Both are in the V12/13 range and it would be nice to use the high motivation and the week to get the two. Others on the list are Fred's Roof, 52 to 1 Carddeck, Jeff's Prow, and Shadow Jumper. Here is video of some of them.

Chunk up the Deuce
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XVwCTgzgSc&feature=related
Chunk and Loved by Few
http://vimeo.com/3991907
Jeff's Prow and Fred's Roof
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA9mJqlbnPo

Motivation

2009-09-16T02:38:00.003-04:00

Going on the recent trend, I will talk about motivation today. This next line isn't an exact quote, but it's appropriate nonetheless.

"Motivation; what is dat all about?" - Ali G

While having proper equipment, training your muscles, and eating the right food is important, none of those come close to the mental aspect of climbing. Plain and simple, mental game gets it done. Motivation can make a climb feel effortless and impossible without it. Of all the things to train, this should be at the top of everyone's list. Prime examples of world class climbing minds would be people pushing the limits... Fred Nicole, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, and Kevin Jorgeson.

Several years ago I was studying architecture in Rome, Italy, and I was in the middle of climbing withdrawals. I had just taken my first trip to Horsepens 40 as opposed to going ice climbing In Ouray, CO. Dying to climb and having nothing but my shoes and a small bag of chalk drove me crazy. I was always thinking about it; grabbing everything as if I were in the middle of a climb. The first visit to a gym there took 2 hours by train and foot. I was utterly lost, but have never been more found once I arrived. Ecole Verticale was a glorious place; however, I only visited twice more. The next gym turned out to be my svaing grace and ultimately one of the major reasons my climbing turned from a hobby to a career.

Jollypower as it was called, was dirty and lacked class even though it was at a sport club. What it lacked in class and technology, it made up for it with motivated people. I climbed once a week with at least 12 men and several girls who could all comfortably complete v8s. Some of these men were nearly 60. I have never before or since met so many people that were so motivated. The ring leader of this place was a man by the name of Alesandro Lamberti, affectionately called Jollypower. At 24 he climbed his first 13.d. At 30 his first 14.b. At 37 his first 14.d. He was 44 when I met him and he is still the stongest and most graceful climber I have ever seen. This is not a man who was blessed for climbing, though he had been climbing for almost 35 years when I met him. Here was a man who trained 'til he was blue in the face, until his muscle failure was so evident that he could not move another inch. I bought his book, thanked him, and still hope I will see him again.

His book is my Bible for training, but it is unfortunately in Italian. Among other things, over 40 pages of the book is dedicated to the metal aspect of the sport of climbing. There are lots of quotes from Bruce Lee, Confuscious, and Shakespeare. One of the Bruce Lee quotes goes as follows, "the mind is the primary obstacle in any physical action." Basically, if you believe you can do it, wether you actually can, it will place the verdict solely in the physical realm. Your mind will either allow you to do the climb or you will not. If you consider all the climbers in the world past and present, you would easily see the strongest minds a top the list and a gradual drop of in acuity as the level of the climber decreased. A great example is Fred Nicole. He has always been about 10 years ahead of his time. He put up the world's first v13 and v14 when people believed Midnight Lightning to be a serious standard and v10 was an extremely high level professional. The fact that he believed and believes that almost no stretch of rock can stop him is dumbfounding. His mind is by far his most impressive asset, and let us not forget his fingers and overall physcial fitness are "special abilities," as he has been seen doing one-arm pullups on a single pinky finger. So next time you think about climbing something remember what Bruce says and keep your mind as open, as smart, and as strong as Fred Nicole's.

Assets

2009-09-15T22:55:00.003-04:00

So yesterday was a post on training, and since I have read so much on it and think about it so frequently I wanted to expand on it a bit more. First, all people and bodies are different. Everyone responds differently to stimulus and recovers at verying rates. Therefore, one person should never be doing anyone else's training regimen. This also applies to dieting. The exception might theoretically be twins or two individuals who were almost identical in tests such as metabolic rate, cell reproduction, existing physical conditions, and their needs for training. General recommendations can be made for the masses, but these should always always be tailored.

Second, I love training myself and coaching others. I wish I could do this as a full time job. Everyone who let me observe them and then train them would eventually become whatever their heart's desired. Anyway, I wish I coached people. Maybe I should write a book or something instead.

Lastly and mostly what I wanted to delve further into is the subject of special abilities of a physical nature or assets as it relates to climbing. This is referring to a strength that is so far above average that it is unique or would be desired by anyone who knew of it. Several examples would be the open hand strength of Jimmy Webb or Dave Graham, the timing of Tyler Landman, the total muscular fitness of Alex Puccio, the lock-offs of Iker Pou, the close-handed talents of James Litz, or Dave Graham's understanding of compression climbing. These people possess unmatched abilities. Perhaps they began with more of this than everyone else, but more likely they have always been pushing something that comes naturally or something preferred. These are just a few examples, but having such a highly developed ability can make one a world class climber. Some people will never be close to such an ability, while others like Dave Graham, Fred Nicole, or Chris Sharma may have multiple ones. However, anyone can train for such a goal, and with the right choices can vastly and quickly improve whatever is desired. Obviously the most arduous would be improving upon weaknesses. One must be committed in making their weakness of paramount importance almost to the point of obsession. This type of training is the least fun and takes the longest, but will yield the most return. For example, what is Tommy Caldwell's weakness? While he has no special climbing talent that would be higher than the 90th percentile, he has virtually no weaknesses other than missin a portion of a digit, which can be argued as a special ability in disguise. Well, that's enough with the training for one post.

Training

2009-09-15T01:41:00.003-04:00

Today, no intro I'm just going to dive in. The past year beginning at the start of this October has been a complete rollercoaster for my climbing. I quit my job last November to travel and climb. It was the best thing I have done for my climbing other than moving to Colorado. I bought my first camera, which has turned out well also. I climbed my first v11 and 12 on the trip, but I've also had some real set backs. I tore my right lat on Easter day (3 months for full recovery), broke my left ankle and tore ligaments in early June (3 months recovery and still not 100%), strained my right middle finger A2 pulley at the beginning of August (still not recovered). Someone said something stupid once to my brother when he broke his collar bone in 2 places and climbed his first v10 4 months later. "It l ooks like it was a blessing in disguise." Turns out maybe that's not such crazy talk. Maybe it let the desire and motivation build so that he would be able to mentally achieve a new level. I've been thinking a lot lately about what if I wasn't injured so much, but then again I would not have developed my weaknesses.

For the past month I have been training at Movement. Here's how it goes. The routes are great, but I don't have a partner. I climb on the auto belay and do 10 routes in 30 minutes anywhere from 5.8-5.12. Dumb, but it gets up the endurance. The boulder problems are absolutely terrible. Poor setting, climbing that doesn't translate outside, and always awkward. So none of that really. The system board is alright, but too many good holds. I train powerful square climbing on this board. Also a lot of sloper training and always with lockoffs on everything. I also spend a lot of time using feet that don't feel the best. Not necessarily bad feet, just 6 inches from where I would like. The training also consists of tons of stretching because of my inflexibility and lots of lifting to develop world class assets and improve upon weak areas. Finally, cardio whenever possible. Training is everyday between 2-5 hours sometimes twice a day. Movement is clean and the people are friendly, not to mention a well designed space from Jim Logan (the architect). This keeps the morale high. Not unlike a friend who I spent part of this last year, I have decided not to seriously climb in the gym more than 2 or 3 times a month, only training. I'm always looking for answers and this could be one.

Random Tidbits

2009-09-11T21:43:00.001-04:00

Here are a few quick blurbs about recent news...

My brother is claiming to be the most motivated climber in Arkansas. I would've never guessed this for him, but breaking a collar bone and tearing a meniscus within the span of six months can change a person's mindset. I was informed last weekend that he nearly sent Fred's Roof v11 in his first session. Having done every move, he is in the agonizing world of trying to finish the climb from the beginning. Well, maybe there will be good news soon.

As a new and very likely the most frequently attending member of Movement Climbing Gym in Boulder, I had the privilege of watching the gym put up a rope testpiece. Mike Moelter claimed it was somewhere in the 14.c/d range after some of the moves were "watered down a bit." Originally, Somewhere near 15.a/b, I watched a v12 boulderer and a competent route climber struggle to do more than two consecutive movements. Nasty to say the least. At 42' the wall isn't that tall, but 30 degrees overhung and every move being from v8-12 with virtually no rests, it packs a mean punch.

Lastly, my portfolio came in the mail. Misprinted because of the company's web layout and several color mishaps will have me printing another 40 dollar copy. Still, I was quite pleased and thought it was pretty sweet to be able to quantify so much work and time spent over the last 6 years.

Arkansas's Hardest Boulders

2009-08-30T00:22:00.005-04:00

I compiled this list in January '09 while trying to convince myself and a friend to visit Arkansas and give the state's difficult bouldering some attention. The two months spent there turned out to be an absolute domination by the two of us and two east coast gentlemen. Here is the best list of what I know for Arkansas.

V10
Center Spooge, Fontaine Red, likely the first at the grade
Hannibal, Fontaine Red
Buddy, Fontaine Red
Ab Lounge/Her Majesty, Invasion
Trackman, Stack Rock
Daddy Long Legs, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Glass Bowl, HCR
Tang, HCR
Flash Gordon, HCR
Dark Elf, HCR (broken)
Starburst, HCR
Swollen Knuckles, HCR
Harricane, HCR
Undertow, HCR
Smooth Operator, HCR
A Perfect 10/ Power of Silence, Springdale Lutz Rd.
House of Magic, Area 74
Shapeshifter Direct, Area 74
From Darkness Comes Light, Area 74
High Maintenance, Area 74
Buddha, DeSoto
Superfly, Lincoln Lake
Crimpit's Tea Room, Goat Farm
Wyatt Earp, Petit Jean

V11
Fred's Roof, Fontaine Red
Broken Earth, Fontaine Red
Stackin Paper, Stack Rock
Bushido, HCR
52 to 1 Cardeck, HCR
Bloody Knuckles, HCR
Shadow Jumper, HCR
Starburst Assis, HCR
Typhoon, HCR
Double Live Gonzo, Area 74
The Oracle, Area 74, (broken)
Thug Jump, Area 74
Thug Life, Area 74
Midnight Frightening, DeSoto

V12
King Lion, Sam's Throne
One Inch Pinch, Fontaine Red
Snakebite, HCR
The Zone, HCR
The Total Package, HCR
The Dirty 30, HCR
The Dirty 40, HCR
Southern Lean, HCR
Pangea, HCR
Release the Squirrels, Split Rocks
Zen's Garden, Desoto

V13
Chunk up the Deuce, Fontaine Red
PCP Fontaine Red
All Screwed Up, HCR
Loved By Few Hated By Many, HCR
Anti-Hero, HCR
Welcome to Fight Club, HCR
Forever Botany, Split Rocks

v14
Witness the Fitness, Hwy23, (broken)
Woodgrain Grippin, Hwy 23
Lost in the Hood, Invasion

These are all the double digit established boulders in the state. There may be more at lesser know locations around Russellville, but this is the list thus far. There are also many undone projects which would make the list, but I will stick to the established for now. If anyone has more current information please let me know, as I think such a list is useful documentation.

What Do I Do with My Hands?

2009-08-27T01:54:00.002-04:00

Sometimes it's no fun to be finished. In architecture school, I always found the time between being finished with architecture studio and being completely done with school for the semester a bit overwhelming. What do you do when something that has occupied countless hours of your life no longer exists or requires any time? Like finishing a project, coming out of a long relationship, or experiencing the harsh reality of death, it's hard to know what to do once something is closed. Some people like Ricky Bobby put their hands right back over their mouth.

Guess this means my architecture portfolio is finished for the time being. One calender year of somewhat intense work yielded 65 pages of architecture and 75 pages of photography in a nine by seven format. So now is this strange aformentioned time. Does this mean I rekindle my love of architecture? Does my architecture take a cue from my photography? Does this open the door for me to sell work? I am lost for the moment, but maybe the answers are already upon me. Perhaps they have always been there and are a gentle suggestion of a persuasion to my will. In jest I hope this persuasion results in the form of a Flava Flav enormous golden clock chain. Actually, I don't care any which way other than "to do/produce cool shit." That is all.

On a final and unrelated note, except for the title, here is a comical dance that goes with a rap song unaffiliated with a movie mention earlier.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ixK0Epr7gw

Sometimes It's Good Not to Have Everything

2009-08-26T00:48:00.004-04:00

Everyone always wishes they had more. More money, more time, more anything. Well this morning I was wishing it was a little cooler in my house so that I could go back to sleep at 4am. Even after several moves throuhgout the house for a cooler spot; it was not to be. So, I decided to use my sleepless time wisely and take some pictures. This had happened earlier this summer, and I would need some different scenery this time. A short drive to Golden, CO, remedied this. 200 hundred photos and 3 hours later...jackpot. Two photos of the same sunrise about 20 minutes apart were produced. It's like mining for gold. Lots of time and lots of work yield a small but precious reward. Unfortunately, my camera is a disposable and 6 megapixels is rather pedestrian today, not to mention an average lens, terrible tripod, and a film speed that bottoms out at 200. One of these days, I'll have a camera that doesn't say Fisher Price on it. Still, it felt like I was back on the road again, and my only responsibility was to suck the marrow out of each day. Sunrises are a wonderful way to begin the day.

Work is a Four Letter Word

2009-08-22T15:20:00.006-04:00

It's true. When was the last time you were excited about work? After all no one calls it easy work. It's always hard work, yard work, or work late. I justed started work again this past week, but this kind is a little less black and white. Also, I've been hard at work on other things than my "real work." A portfolio of my architecture work in college and my photography over the past eight months will actually be finished soon, and it will be nice to focus on climbing and being healthy as I did for 6 months this past winter. Here are a few things I've been pouring time into.

Only One

2009-08-19T01:08:00.008-04:00

Check this before anything else because you will be proud to have heard it before all of your friends and listen to Only One. http://www.myspace.com/flyunion

There have been lots of visitors in the last week and more to come. My brother (Jason), Pierre, Ariel, and Stuart made the trek from Arkansas last week and will leave this weekend. Tons of climbing has happened this week and last. Also, the parents came to town. First time to visit Boulder with me here so that has been nice and exciting to show them around. Here are a few snapshots thus far.

Mostly silliness at the Front Porch in Denver.

Looks like a Rex Quando wanna-be to mehttp://bp1.blogger.com/_Gkee5Q_0UWk/R03tXrSgq3I/AAAAAAAAAOg/rRVR846bpKA/s1600-h/Rex%20Kwon%20Do%201.jpg

Sometimes you only want to show half of your torso.

Taking your pants off is the only way to cure a fall on your tailbone.

Jumping in Lake Haiyaha is always a good decision no matter how cold.

Love and Life

2009-08-03T13:19:00.002-04:00

On the similar mindset from the last post. Here is another great track from Little Brother and an old favourite to remind us of younger days without scars and only the future ahead of us.

://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AD-2eQuq3Hg&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnoQlZdabys

"I got dreams, but dreams don't keep the lights on."

2009-08-02T00:43:00.003-04:00

First things first, listen to this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phno9K6fdlI and you will understand.

I used to dream at night so much that I awoke exhausted in the morning. Like most dreams they were rarely congruous as the events and people were a strange amalgamation. Sometimes they were so vivid I could barely distinguish between conscious and unconscious occurrences. Almost every dream was about climbing and never about anything I was or am capable of climbing. Visions and futures revealed nightly as eyelids fell and my head floated.

Here are some of the recent things I have been dreaming about.
Secret Splendour
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDAXKGgZW6s&feature=channel_page

Nuthin but Sunshine
No super quality videos for this bad boy, but I find myself looking at this stretch of rock every time I come to the Park. History, difficulty, and stature. This one has it all.

Midnight Express
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUDMBVJW5q8

And of course randomness in Arkansas.

Pit Your Own Destiny

2009-07-18T23:44:00.002-04:00

Sometimes it is all about the present moment, even when you are dying to relive the past or lose yourself in dreams of the future. Sometimes it is the here and now. These instances are what make contentment or give you the desire to move towards such a state.

Today I...
picked and pitted cherries for 4 hours; never again.
practiced baseball for an hour, which was about 2 hours too little.
slept until 10.
swallowed complaints and instead tried to make others happy.
heard two cyclists talking about their new careers.
played barefooted on a slip-n'-slide in the backyard.
spent several hours reliving the past and dreaming of the future.
gave love to a child.

This reads like a jack of all trades, parent, or someone who experiences variety on a daily basis. However, these are not my desires; they are my choices. Tomorrow will be another day in the Park. Another day of climbing, hiking, and driving. Another day to escape, to explore, and to investigate. I wish I were going to Utah for the next 4 days to relive the past and establish a future, but my current choices do not allow for such a trip. Someday the eight things that happened today will manifest themselves into something completely wonderful. Until then, it's cherries for me.

Kicking and Screaming

2009-07-17T01:36:00.007-04:00

Another big day happened at the Park yesterday, and was only shortened due to swarming mosquitos. Dan Michels, Anne, and I went to lower Chaos. We arrived in the parking lot around 10 only to find three others with a similar mindset. So three became six and we headed up the canyon. Anne warmed up with a send of Autobot, and I followed suit with the low start to it. Both great climbs. Unfortunately Dan was off to a bit of a slow start, having forgotten his shoes and chalk. No worries. Our new friends gladly contributed in the needed departments and Dan warmed up with a quick send of the Fat Lady Stand. Now technically this really isn't a problem, but so many people are doing it, that it's becomming something of a must do in the area.

So six split back into three as the other half went further up the trail. Meanwhile, Dan proceeded over to flash Taurus or do it on his second try. Amazingly fast considering he was using shoes that didn't fit. Then it was over to Tommy's Arete. Now I had sworn it off for two years. Supposedly saving it for only one try. Mostly, it was a moderate climb in difficulty and a satchel full of moves. So by then we had run into friends Carry And Kell from Boulder and the forces were strong once more. I managed to have a foot slip off and take two tries with Dan being shortly behind on the send train. Carry had a repeat for a warmup and Anne posed for pictures. Gracias.

Lastly, it was back to Autobot. I am intrigued by problems with less moves than can be counted on one hand with loads of power and nuances to each move and hold. That said, I has always enjoyed the short roof behind Mikala. I sent, saw that it was grade 7B+, and decided to give it a name; as all climbs should have names. Carry was heartbreakingly close on more than one try. Afterwards I had convinced Anne to try Wyoming Chinese, an arete on the far right of the same face as Mikala. It is a standing start, four move problem with an intense terraced landing, thin holds and committing moves. We both complete the problem in less than ten attempts between us. I screamed on three of the moves and started celebrating before I had even done all the moves. People claimed to have heard me several miles up the canyon. Even Chris Sharma and Michael Jackson would be proud of a scream of that magnitude. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNl2Pm9-7Vk.

Anne working on the Marble

Tommy's Arete in lower Choas. A must-do if you can climb the grade.

Justin Vernon and a Guy Named Tommy

2009-07-13T16:19:00.005-04:00

Saturday turned out to be one of the most enjoyable days I've had in a long time. On most off days from work I climb from 10 to 10. That's about as fun as it gets to me. However, a concert was squeezed in on Saturday and memories were made. Around 9am Lauren Vogl and I left for RMNP. We met some friends at Emerald Lake and climbed there for a while before a quick trip up to Lower Chaos. Even though we had to leave at 5pm for the show and not the most climbing got done, it was another wonderful day in the Park. We managed to drive out just as it was beginning to rain. There was a quick rush to clean up, get a drink, and head to the show. Several weeks ago Lauren bought me a ticket...as an early birthday present. Turns out it was a ticket to Bon Iver at the Ogden. What, an amazing show. Almost every night I would sit in my car after sundown on Buttermilk Rd. in Bishop and listen to his 14 recorded songs. Listening to his music alone in the desert at the base of Mt. Tom was so many meaningful things. The melodies and words became the soundtrack to my life for that month and will always have a special place with me. Check him out at http://boniver.org/. After the show the night was not over. We had dinner at Pete's Diner, which can be described with words like hearty, hoppin', and cosy. We called it quits with two episodes from Felicity season 2 ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pifm2nBvzKA). Brilliant. A show that was wholesome part of middle school for me.

Photos of Tommy's Other Arete courtesy of Said Parirokh. A masterpiece of a line from Tommy Caldwell, whose father suggested that the would be bouldering in the park over a decade ago.

Well, it's is Monday and I'm off. Instead of going to the Park again today, since rainw as forecast, I'm working on a set of architectural drawings for a friend's parent's new home. It's been a while since I've drawn on the computer, but it's relaxing in a strange way. Like putting on an old pair of jeans for an early fall football game. Good stuff.

RMNP is My Favorite P

2009-07-08T16:58:00.005-04:00

Park season has officially started. With almost every problem acessible and the snow melting at mach speed, RMNP will be the place to climb over the next 3 months. Park season is a wonderful time. A time to meet up with people, make new friends, discover remote areas with old ones, work on your tan, and get stronger. I cannot begin to explain my excitement, but rather I will tell you that I am making the drive and hike every other day for the next week, and I would go more if I thought I could handle it. I have dreamed of these three months in the Park since the beginning of the year, and I am hoping to make many fond memories. So, while the time is right and the next 3 months are still the future, visit Rocky Mountain National Park.

COntent Meaning Well Enough Pleased

2009-06-29T23:55:00.004-04:00

Have you ever been content? For some people it's a daily occurrence; for others and probably most, it is not so common. The difficulty lies in a small detail. You must be overwhelmingly content to realize this state of being. Well, I am currently residing in that state. I've been before and I am sure to visit again, but it's nice to be here again. There is a quote from a song and I forget who sings it but it goes something like this, "It's not a party if it happens every night." That's not techinically correct, but it almost always holds true. Now that quote has relevance to the subject at hand, because if you have found the recipe for contentment, why would you chose to change it? Why not wash, rinse, and repeat? Maybe people try this. Maybe it works for some period of time. However, like the nightly party, it eventually loses it's luster and the recipe no longer works. So, each person is presented with a daily dilemma. How do you reach contentment each day? Supposing you find the right mix, do you keep with it until it no longer produces or do you change it anticipating the inevitable outcome?

That said, I am planning another road trip. If it works, I will be on the road again around the new year. I enjoy the majority of what I am currently doing, but sometimes I go through the motions with my children and children need more than that even if they're not my own. This trip should be exciting. It'll hopefully be a reward well earned. A chance to regroup, recharge, and rediscover. This one will be well-thought, precise, but most of all in time and just enough.

A pine needle path in Yosemite, which kept me wandering for 15 miles one day. Just enough.

Late Fees are for Overdue Mess

2009-06-28T00:10:00.004-04:00

It's been over a month since an update. No internet and a severe change in scenery will do that. The time that has passed since was equivalent to all the daily journal entries, if you will, from the Bishop point in my road trip. We'll skip that and we'll also skip all the details to what has happened in between then. However, I will say that I have internet again thanks to a relatively new job as a nanny. Updating should be a bit easier. Also, a nasty foot/ankle injury several weeks ago is looking quite promising. Another few weeks and I'll be able to sit Indian style and resume praticing my Rex Quando leg sweeps. So the important news...

1. Sunrises and sunsets are a beautiful thing to see alone or to share
2. Outdoor climbing will commence once again with two ankles
3. Michael Jackson died = drastic change in music for the summer
4. I'm going to Bon Iver in Denver

End of the road means new beginnings

2009-05-15T12:31:00.002-04:00

Last Wednesday marked the end of a six month traveling and climbing journey around the US. Needless to say, I was tired physically and emotionally. The road can be a very rewarding place, but also an unforgiving one. Even the smallest of hiccups can bring your life to a screeching halt. Side bar: never lose your keys while crossing a river and hiking in the woods, especially if those are the keys to your whole life. Those six months were and will always be special to me for the people I met, the places I experienced, and the climbing. After only a week, a part of me wishes I was already leaving for another adventure again. The road is everything you need it to be right when you need it. Example, you can leave for a new setting as soon as the current one stops being what you want or need. Well, that's not the case anymore for at least a good while. I'm in Boulder for the time being as I have just taken a job as a live-in nanny for a wonderful family of five. I hope to have children someday if it's in the works, but that only because I love them so much. This should be a good trial and a nice way to get the toes wet before diving in head first.

So the bulk of the next, undetermined amount of posts will be from the last month and a half in my journal. Unfortunately, a journal of daily happenings was not kept throughout the trip; however, the other four months were spent in places I had been previously. Little exploration done in those places and more settling into routines that once existed. Also the last 45 days were more or less a solo mission with different supporting cast at each venue. Enjoy if you are interested; if not, this will be all you receive from this blog each day for a while.

3.25.09 Day 1

I arrived in Bishop late this afternoon. Had to call Pierre for directions the last 15 miles, but the extra effort was completely worth it. Clutch, Pierre. The Buttermilks are amazing!! The weather was perfect when I arrived around 5:30. Quite a few people are here for Spring Break and just in general. Perfect, perfect, setting. Steep mountains with snow in the near background and quartz monzonite eggs of all sizes litter the hillsides. Super concentrated boulder field, zero approach, fairly friendly landings, and stone that offers a variety of textures and holds. So pretty; gorgeous!! I'm parked below the Iron Man Traverse. I don't have a guidebook, but that seems fine. There is a small field of this blood red, twiggy ground cover next to my car with random large tufts of waist-high, golden wheat. The Sierras are only a few miles away and are covered in snow. This is already a special place to me even though I've only been here for a few hours. I couldn't sleep much last night at Rob's house in Vegas. Probably because of all the crazy dreaming or that I wasn't used to sleeping on an air mattress.

There is more but not necessary for here.

COming Home

2009-03-04T11:05:00.002-05:00

I arrived in Colorado on Saturday night after an exhausting 13hr drive. Glad to be done with that until I have to drive to Hueco Tanks this weekend. It's always strange returning to familiar faces and places after being away for an extended period of time. Like seeing friends on the first day of school after summer break, I was excited to be back home. Everyone is more or less the same, and it feels like I never really left Colorado at all. Even the weather is the same, which is perfect. Somehow over the past three months I managed to forget what it was like to be in Boulder, a place so full of good energy, life, and happiness that it can carry you. This place has a vibe that makes me want to get out, live, and accomplish things. I love it.

Since arriving, there has been almost nothing but climbing. Sunday, it was Carter Lake with a 12 person super posse. Great warm weather and a peaceful setting, but terrible rock. I've never felt or acted like a rock snob until that day; however, the friends were still top notch. Monday, it was an early breakfast at the dinning halls and then Flagstaff. I would like to thank Addison Maier for making my dream to eat in the dinning hall come true. That night it was an overly pschyed session at the Spot. My boys crushed everything with no regard for difficulty while I made up problems, coached, heckled, and brain-pointed every single problem in the gym. Yesterday, SOrens and I ran the one-two on Turning Point in the Satellites. A great problem and a must do if you have the strength and time. Then it was time for a night session in the gym. I gave moral support as she climbed all the 3 spots and rebrain-pointed everything in sight. Today is finally a rest day, but I will get to watch Brob at the Rock Club tonight. So excited to be back and living this week of my life in Boulder!

Fontaine Red

2009-02-19T11:24:00.005-05:00

Two days ago I decided to go for a day-long adventure. I hopped in the camry and drove the 100 miles by myself to Fontaine Red, which is located near Deer, Arkansas. Shortly after leaving Fayetteville it began to rain and I was worried about driving so far and all the rocks being wet. However, I thought of the Hospital boulders in AL, where it never rains even if it's raining everywhere else. Maybe Font will be like this I thought to myself. As luck would have it, it was!

First, the acess to Font would no longer be possible if it were for the people who cleaned it. I was told by Patrick Weldon that he and several others spent a whole day cleaning the road to the main area. Thankyou and awesomeness. So, take you time, clean a bit as you go, and you can still enjoy Arkansas's first bouldering destination. The purpose of the day was for 3 things.

1. Center Splooge: AR's first v10

2. Broken Earth

3. Fred's Roof

I warmed up on Mills Lane v7. This is a great moderate on the Center Splooge boulder and has some super textured sandstone. Finishing this, I moved to Center Splooge. I had worked it twice in the past and was hoping this would be the day. After an hour of solid work and some beta refinement, I managed to finally stick and hold the light, dynamic crux. It was quite satisfying to do a problem that had eluded me and had such history.

Center Splooge follows the huecos with crimps up the middle of the wall.

Next, I tried a roof project which I thought would be a lot easier than what it was. Couldn't even get off the ground. Then it was off to Broken Earth. Jeremy recently got the second ascent of this problem, and I was hoping it would also go for me. The problem features a starting sidepull and undercling jug feature and then 5 crimps of varying terribleness. I quickly figured out my beta, which was almost exactly the same as Jeremy's, but my hips are tighter than White House security so a minor tweak there. About an hour and a half into the problem, I realized I was going to have to bare down extra hard to get a to the top. This resulted in several dry-fires and lots of breathless minutes to follow. One of the last goes that I would've had for the day, I managed to keep everything together just enough to squeak out a send. I have never sent anything so desperate and by what felt like the narrowest of margins in my life. So pleased.

Broken Earth follows crimps up the middle of the picture.

Pre Valetine's Day Massacre

2009-02-16T15:59:00.007-05:00

As I mentioned in the previous post, on Friday Jason completed his first v10 and followed it up with a 7 and an 8. Most likely his best outing to date. Earlier that day, I traveled to Area 74 by my lonesome to see if I could do anything new or just get a workout since Jeremy was donating plasma. As it turned ou I had a pretty good day myself. I put up two new moderates on the shortest part of the main wall and a fairly difficult climb across the road next to Jeremy's Messy Bear. I then proceeded to finally complete From Darkness Comes Light v10. This was probably my proudest moment of the day as I have worked it for quite some time over several years, and have fallen on the last move about a dozen too many times.

Messy Bear v8 starts on the low slope on the left side of the picture and moves up the faint crack and then right for a move to topout. High Maintenance v10 start on a pinch to the right of the tree in the picture and traverses left into the feature that is heavily chalked. The problem has quality movement, but is unfortunately north-facing. It is almost always wet, sandy, or dirty in general, but the rock cleans well. The grade may change with more ascents and depending on its evolving condition. If you find yourself running out of problems, wanting to topout, or wanting to clean something to warm-up, this climb is an excellent choice.

Dreams and Realities v6 begins on a right facing sidepull and a left hand crimp just to the left of the rock in the bottom right of the picture. It makes one move left and then backwards to the right facing jug before topping out left of the tree.

Self service begins 15 feet to the left of Dreams and Realities and as around a v7. It begins right hand in the heavily chalked slot and left hand on a crimp. It makes one large move to a jug straight out and then finishes straight over the lip. Both of these moderates previously had chalk on some of the holds, so I am probably not the first to do them. However, they are not in the guide book, so this is what I am calling them. Both are nice problems for their difficulty.

Scott Fitzgerald on From Darkness Comes Light v10 in the fall of '07 courtesy of Matt Hagler.

Little Mexico

2009-02-16T15:06:00.008-05:00

VD? "Yep, that's some good stuff" is what you should say.

So, there has been some serious, recent, throw down fistacuffs domination at Lutz Rd. (Springdale). Last Thursday Jeremy and I visited to get some exercise. We both quickly put away an old problem which lies just left of the Muffin and climbs into it. It doesn't have a name, but this one might stick; Squealing for Butter v8. It was a nice little roof climb. Next I tried to complete A Perfect 10 v10, but could only muster a little progress and threw in the towel after a few goes. Jeremy, on the other hand, was trying a direct line out of that problem on small crimps up the face and underclings in the roof. Super cool-looking movement and fairly tough as he was suggesting somwhere in the 12 or 13 range. Last, we both repeated the Dirt Merchant Direct Dyno v10. I had "established" it a year an a half ago and wanted to see what it felt like again. Jeremy clapped it up and I was not too far behind him. The next day Jason came out for a similar workout and followed suit on all those mentioned. He also did Billy Ray Cyrus v7 to finish off the day. Nice work on the first 10 son!

JTW's project starts on the lowest right chalked hold, traverse left several moves and then heads out the blank section. Burly and super technical.

Dirt Merchant Direct starts on a right facing rail, moves to two crimps, and makes a big move to a jug. Holding the swing can take some practice.

Jason making the third move on Squealing for Butter v8.

Jason in the middle of the long twisting lock-offs of Billy Ray Cyrus v7.

Lazy Sunday

2009-02-10T14:51:00.002-05:00

It's not actually Sunday, but it sure feels like it. Jeremy and I tried to go climbing earlier today at Area 74 and Split Rocks. Rain was in the forecast, but the air was so warm it caused the rocks to sweat. I guess the rocks knew we were coming. Anyway, today is another rest day. Rest day activities include lifting weights, reading books, posting on blogs, editing pictures, talking smack, watching indoor climbing, or eating cake. Maybe Jeremy won't do anything else crazy to Simon's hair.

Hot garbage:
http://www.hulu.com/watch/1397/saturday-night-live-snl-digital-short-lazy-sunday

I'm an Escalade

2009-02-09T12:13:00.002-05:00

The setting was perfect! The rocks were sandy and wet, the ground was mushy soft, and there was the other man. Keep reading; this is still about climbing. On Saturday, Jeremy accomplished what is very likely the second ascent of Justin Wood's Ruthless Arete v11 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H_qilCR9F0 <-- he ghostrode both of the climbs in this one. He flashed it in the aforementioned setting and proceed to knock it down to nine points. That was the first climb of the day and the highlight. We both came relatively close on Kneeling Before Power but couldn't seem to muster enough skin and will power. I stomped Orbital Mechanics to the right of it, and almost manged the send by doing a 180. Not so, but the the next time I skipped holds and dynoed. It is raining here and everyone is unsure of themselves since we should be climbing today.

Side note #1: Simon received a haircut yesterday. He is either an eight pound lion or wearing tights and a cropped fur coat. Hilarious and spot on. Pictures soon on here or http://jeremytyler.blogspot.com/

Side note #2: I have a handlebar mustache and I operated a chainsaw yesterday. Put two checks for me in the badass column.

The Ranch

2009-02-06T12:19:00.004-05:00

Yesterday Jeremy and I decided to take a day trip to Horseshoe Canyon. We were told there were many down trees and lots of brush to impede all sorts of activities. Unfortunately we weren't disappointed. The hiking was laborous to say the least, but the weather was prime so we had a good day. After warming up, we went to look at a possible sit start to an existing problem called Come O Long. I thought it might be possible; however, after some attempts by both of us to get off the ground in a productive fashion...no such thing. We left there for a Daniel Woods problem called Wrong Turn v9. This roof climbs through 6 huecos and is not too bad if your jug calluses are thick. Mine were not and thought I might lose some fingers. Jeremy said "excuse" and whistled his way through the jug haul. Classic.

Next stop for the day was the Knuckles boulder. I wanted to get up any line on it and JTW wanted to be done with Bloddy Knuckles v11. Unfortunately, Jesus Watch Oh Nine blessed the landing with a huge downed tree perfect for breaking backs, ankles, and legs so all the climbs are moving up in the "E" grading. Anyway, Jeremy ran out of gas for the crux move of Bloody, so no send there. Heartbreakingly close. In the mean time I had begun work on Knuckle Sandwich v9. I did all the moves quickly and gave a few goes from the beginning, but seemed to be lacking the endurance. JT came to the rescue with a swift kick in my britches to get me going. I sprayed and sprayed and sprayed beta from all angles, which resulted in a flash for him. He was grateful for my motorboating and I followed suit with a send right after him. Next I practiced my beta spraying skills on Swollen Knuckles v10. This year-old Blakes Strickland problem climbs crimps striaght up the wall. Jeremy pranced it and avoided the potential death fall on the fallen tree.

The Knuckles Boulder

The last hour of the day was spent next door at Ty Landman's Typhoon v11. Jeremy had already done it and I was still working on the stand, coming in around v10 and known as Harricane by Harry Robertson. I finally stuck the single move, but could not do the sit start. Having spent around 125 tries on the stand start over several seasons, I'm excited to have done the move and enjoy the contentment from not feeling a desire to do the sit start.

Doin Work

2009-02-04T16:52:00.004-05:00

So as of late, I've finally decided to get back on the proverbial horse. My climbing has been experience a slow decline over the previous two months, but hopefully there will be no more unmotivation. It was brought to my attention that I was not climbing enough to "do work" on meaningful rock climbs. Since returning to Arkansas, I've climbed several times in the gym, done a few sit-ups, and tried to climb at least four times a week.

Monday we went to DeSoto. Jeremy was going to clean a project and attempt some of the higher moves on top-rope, and I was going to try to do anything. Turns out Jeremy's project is a lot harder than he thought; maybe he will find enough in himself to claw to the top of it before he leaves the state. I started the day off by warming up on a classic problem called Zen in a Blender v6. I would strongly reccomend this one to anyone who enjoys climbs at this grade or is trying to do a climb around this grade. After getting warm I proceeded plow through problems. I'm unaware what the names of some of these problems are, but I managed to luck out and do Buddha v10. I was informed recently that this was an old Micah Scott problem. It is a one move problem for the grade on a 40 degree wall with essentially no feet. After several dozen attempts at getting off the ground, I succeeded and realized the climb. Success by way of perserverance is one of the principals reasons why I continue to climb. I love that feeling.

Today, I made a quick trip to Lake Lincoln to take a look at a possible unrepeated Barret Tilley problem known as Superfly v10. I did the problem with several bumps, but it is a two move problem for the most part. After guaging the first long move and trying each move in isolation, I put the whole problem together in a few hours of work. I wish the problem would've gone a bit quicker, but the cold weather made for a nice session.

Jesus Watch Oh Nine

2009-01-30T15:54:00.004-05:00

Over the past business week many people in the heartland region of the midwest were led to believe Jesus would be returning soon, very soon, infact this week of all weeks. I was one of these individuals. As it turns out all the hullabaloo (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/hullabaloo) was the once-a-decade-ice-storm. Mostly tree damage and some 1.5 million homes and businesses without power. All this killed the climbinng and training that was supposed to happen, but it made for some fun and interesting nights with the few friends in Fayetteville that were lucky enough not to lose power. Days and nights were spent drinking the hours away. More than a few magazines were read and a few books "looked at" in an attempt to ward off alcohol induced retardation since school was cancelled for the week. Amazing! Too bad I'm not in school this semester. If you could imagine the winter wonderland scenes that you can buy during the holiday season for the home, then you would have imagined Fayetteville correctly over the last week. Beautiful in a haunting black and white and unapologetic way.

So now we wait for ice to melt and rocks to dry. In the mean time I've been thinking what I'm going to do with my life after this trip. Who knows, ugh. Possibly the answer is in a long visit up the west coast to Squamish in early spring.

Guidebook Update

2009-01-26T19:30:00.007-05:00

Since the freezing weather has not permitted climbing over the past few days, I decided to turn my efforts elsewhere. Because of all the sending as of late, I realized that the Area 74 guidebook could use an update. The guide was originally written by Scott Fitzgerald about 4 years ago and since then over a dozen new problems have been established ranging from v7-v11. While the original guidebook doesn't have all the correct names, the current names are the ones the general public knows, thus no names were changed, only additions made. Even though it is a small area, it has a pretty good range and depth of problems and it's proximity to Fayetteville make it a worth while destination. So, check it out sometime if you find yourself with an afternoon to burn in the area...http://www.drtopo.com/guidebooks/pdf_guides/usa/Arkansas/Area_74.pdf

The Ranch

2009-01-26T18:38:00.004-05:00

You can't climb everyday nor should you. Turns out Jeremy is learning this one the hard way. Yesterday we visited Horseshoe Canyon Ranch(http://www.gohcr.com/rock_climbing.htm). Sorry the website is run by punters. Anyway, the high for the day was 30 and felt about 10 degrees colder. Windy, high humidity, and no sun means it takes you an hour to warm-up, if you can even call your current state after that period of time as "warm." Be that as it may we tried to climb stuff. He had a streak to maintain of 7 days of climbing in which he had climbed at least a v11, and I, on the other hand, was trying to send anything. We decided on the divide and conquer method, but unfortunately Jeremy was unable to get warmed up again once he made the 20 minute hike across the canyon. That coupled with the fact that he was trying to make the second ascent of Dave Graham's power testpiece, Loved by Few Hated by Many v13, didn't bode well. He rant into two hours later without a pad and confessed the ending of the streak. Just two days before he and I had visited DeSoto. As usual, he wreck shop and I tried to keep up. I sent nothing for the day, while he crushed the second ascent of Zach Leavitt's Midnight Frightening v11. He the proceeded to establish two of his own in Project Pat v9 and Upward Warrior v8, both of which were sick climbs.
JTW blowing minds and demoralizing others on Midnight Frightening v11

Upward Warrior v8 starts in a standing position with sidepulls bear-hugging the arete. It gains the sloper at 10' and tops out slightly left.

While Jeremy was gone, I proceeded to do the likely second ascent of an old Blake Strickland problem in the north Idahos called Isolation v8. Although it is an eliminate, it climbs some amazing sandstone slopers, so I was pleased to finally do it. Next I met up with the only other people at the Ranch that day who also happened to be friends. I had the chance to witness what is very likely the first native female Arkansan send a v7 in Razor's Edge. Morgan Gattis has been holding her own with the boys for years, and she definitely seeing dividends these days. Hopefully her climbing will continue to flourish. Across from Razor's Edge is another Blake Strickland problem know as Dark Elf v10. This was one of the original four v10s at the Ranch before outside developers came. Unfortunately, I was told by Blake that the problem never saw a second ascent as it broke shortly after his first ascent and is probably unrepeatable in its current state. After 30 minutes on Sunday, I had worked out all the moves except for one, which still illudes me. In this time Morgan sent her project and Jeremy reappeared, so I decided to call it quits on that rig until a warmer day.

Last stop for the day was yet another Strickland problem. Come O Long v8, was established a little over a year ago in the south Idahos directly behind Even Dirtier. It is an excellent short face climb with a slightly hazardous fall potential. Blake chose to top it out by traversing left and coming back right; however, I thought the correct line should be straight up. I nearly flashed the problem, but neglected to fully consider the topout. Short work yielded my second Strickland problem of the day and another possible second ascent. I was happy to have done this one, especially since I believe a sit start will be possible on this one. By that time it was so cold one could barely stay warm even while climbing in a down jacket, so we called it quits. All in all it was a good day. A lot of climbing by myself and "alone time", but that's what this roadtrip was predicated on anyway.

Second Ascent? Naw...First Ascent!

2009-01-23T00:54:00.003-05:00

Today Jeremy and I went to Area 74 so he could continue to wreck shop in Arkansas. He did four problems in several hours and the easiest was his first FA at the location. After warming up we went across the street to the North face of the Ripple Effect boulder. I had brushed two sloper problems here on several different occasions over the past year. Although these problems are a mere eight feet tall, they are still great little problems on high quality sandstone. Unfortunately, it's facing North, so there's always moss and lichen growing and the stone is on the soft end which makes it sandy when it's not brushed often. After thirty minutes of serious brushing and rechalking, Jeremy finally managed to send the left problem and called it Messy Bear (v8). The problem begins on a sloper and is a one move wonder to a right hand pinch. I followed suit several minutes later, and was pleased as I have always wanted to climb this short face since brushing it.

Next it was back across the street to Shapeshifter Direct. I had established this direct start in the fall of '07 to the existing Shapeshifter, which is a traverse, and had suggested the grade of v10. While the traverse is a good problem in its own right, I felt the direct version to be the true line and the first of many difficult roof problems to come from 74. A descent flash attempt yielded another successful climb in a few more trys for Mr. JTW.

Two down, two to go. Next was the Battle of the Bulge project. When Scott Fitzgerald published the guidebook to Area 74 through Drtopo.com, he believed this climb to be the most difficult, suggesting a possible grade of v12 even though no one had climbed it. The problem is an instant classic if you're able to pull off the ground, and it is some of the friendliest sandstone in the Ozarks. The bottom half is slightly overhung and trends right to left up a steep flake. This section is probably v1 to an undercling. From here the problem get progressively more technical and difficult including drop knees, flags, a half inch deep mono, a grossly thin sloping crimp, and a stab for the finish. I honestly doubt anyone repeats this line for a very long time, as it will take someone with some special and finely honed fortes and some serious determination. Jeremy decided to name it Double Live Gonzo (v11). Well done sir!

While Double Live Gonzo was the crowning moment, it would not be JTW's last tune of the day. In twilight we walked to the Eastern most end of 74 in hopes that Jeremy had one last climb in him. A month and a half ago I had opened the former Bad Girls project in the corridor, calling it The House of Magic (v10). With another second ascent looming, I gave the play-by-play in hopes that it would get flashed. A good effort was had, but no such luck. Not a mintue before complete darkness, Jeremy sent it next go. We gathered our belongings and lumbered to the car, excited about all that was accomplished but equally exhausted.

Tomorrow we are travelling to a nearby magical wonderland known as the Kingdom of Caring. We have both climbed several days in a row, but there is a streak to be kept alive and domination will most likely ensue.

Second Ascents

2009-01-22T10:42:00.005-05:00

Two nights ago several friends were talking about climbing. One asked another if he had put up anything recently. The unspecific nature of the question was a bit confusing to the person it was posed. Was it about opening new boulders, claiming first ascents, or simply climbing rocks? The answer: no, just second ascents.

As of late, Jeremy Tyler Walton has been on a second ascent spree. Now, that's not the most difficult thing to maintain in Arkansas since first ascents are going up everywhere and few people do a good job of sharing information about a new climb. Nonetheless, the guy has been "turning beef to patties" to quote Lil' Wayne. Last Monday, he added another tick to his second ascent list with his quick send of Ryan Sewell's Broken Earth (v11/12) at Fontaine Red. Later I received the full list of his second ascents, some of which only two people have done. Neat.

Dragon Slayer (v12), Little Rock City, FA: Tony Lamiche

Reflections (v10), Little Rock City, FA: Matt Bosley

Shadow Jumper (v11/12), Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, FA: Jason Kehl

Release the Squirrels (v12), Split Rocks, FA: Dave Graham

Western Gold (v11), Laurel Snow, FA: Jimmy Webb

Broken Earth (v11/12), Fonatine Red, FA: Ryan Sewell

God Given (v10), Horsepens 40, FA: Josh Reyes

Her Majesty (v10), Fontaine Red, FA: Scott Fitzgerald

Crimpit's Tea Room (v10), Goat Farm, FA: Blake Strickland

Dirt Merchant Direct (v10), Springdale, Fa: yours truly

Ryan Sewell's Broken Earth climbs what Ryan claims are "some of the smallest crimps he can hold." Agreed.

Split Rocks

2009-01-18T13:10:00.010-05:00

Yesterday, Jason, Pierre, Jeremy, and I decided to go climbing. Unfortunately, once we arrived at the destination, Pierre and Jason chose not to climb; however, they still honked their literal and proverbial horns. The first stop was at Area 74 where Jeremy and I both had a little work to do. Jeremy began his rampage by warming up on and completing The Oracle (v11). The first ascent likely came this time last year by Blake Strickland. I believe it was originally called Twilight, but not much was ever said about the climb. A few months later, Ryan Sewell had been visiting the Ozarks for a while and climbed what he believed to be an undone project in The Oracle. Words and pictures were spread, and with three repeats occurring in the past month and a half the problem will most likely keep the later name. I managed this problem about a month ago and would reccomend giving it a try.

The Oracle

Next, Jeremy and I moved over to the project roof at 74. While the rock can be friable under this roof, it has the capability to produce some long and powerful roof climbs to highball finishes in the high double-digit range. In two or three goes Jeremy found himself at the top of From Darkness Comes Light (v10). Two summers ago I opened up the stand (Eternal Twilight v7) to this porblem with the intention of working my way deeper into the roof. As time passed and school began in the fall, I was unable to complete the sit start. The first ascent was claimed to be either Scott Fitzgerald or Eric Gifford sometime that winter, but I don't know the dates. Maybe a year later, Joe Meiners visited from Dallas and believed he had a first ascent on the problem and called it Arachnaphobia. If you haven't noticed already this is a trend in Arkansas. Someone does an amazing climb, doesn't publicize it, and climbing in Arkansas continue as if nothing ever happened. It's fine not to inform the public about what is being climbed, but it makes for an unorganized and unprogressive climbing community.

From Darkness Comes Light climbs out the roof ten feet left of the crack in the face.

The last stop of the day was Split Rocks. This is perhaps one of the most wonderful places in all of Arkansas. To date, there are two established boulder problems, about half a dozen project boulder problems, one bolted project sport climb, and a project trad line. With such few lines and few people knowing its location, Split Rocks remains in obscurity, which is probably for the best. Since I am unaware of the current state of access for this land, I would suggest not visiting unless you can do whatever it is that you desire to do in a few hours. I digress. Anyway, Dave Graham put up a highball pocketed testpiece in February of '08 known as Release the Squirrels, which premiered in the movie Dosage 5. It climbs a 40' face of impeccable white standstone. After 30 minutes of work, Jeremy had made it through the low crux and was in the middle of the 30' slab topout. Needless to say, he was a happy camper once he was finally on top.

Jeremy sticking the first pocket on Release the Squirrels (v12).

Jeremy battling the redpoint crux of Release the Squirrels.

Finding Forever?

2009-01-16T23:37:00.008-05:00

To die by freezing must be one of the worst possible ways of surrendering one's life. Yesterday was one of the most inhospitable days that I can remember in my six winters in Fayetteville, AR. So ofcourse Jeremy and I decided to go exploring at Lincoln Lake. The temperature stayed in the teens the whole day and felt below zero with the wind and humidity. After three hours of hiking, the cold managed to freeze my beard and the mustache Jeremy so badly wants to grow.

The objective of the day was not this but to visit a potentially special south face of a boulder deep in the woods. For the record, Lincoln is the epitome of Arkansas sandstone in areas where rock quality is poor. The stone here is grossly over featured and yields very few desirable climbing faces. However, that blessed miniscule percentage is spectacular. Rewind nearly a year ago; both my brother, Jason, and I are healing from finger injuries. Four months of nothing had me chomping at the bit to climb something. This lead me to Lincoln in search of hard climbing of any style. I had visited in December shortly after school ended and wanted more. Climbing in Arkansas produces an effect that makes an explorer believe that just around the corner will hold the "next big thing." Couple this insatiable hunger to explore with a maddening desire to climb and you will never want to go on a hike with me again. That late winter day brought me to the "black face" after four miles of bushwacking. Words like "amazing, unbelievable, hard, and double-digit" keep liberating themselves from my mouth since that day, and yesterday's visit reconfirmed these words. I don't know how friable the rock is, but hopefully this 16' face will hold itself together long enough for someone to get up it.

The black face on the Green Monster boulder

A favorite tree of mine on the way to the black face.

Side note: Jeremy and I saw two bald eagles.

"Climbing Porn"

2009-01-14T20:45:00.012-05:00

From more than a few set of lips I have heard the term "climbing porn" in reference to "all things good" in relation to climbing media. Put simply, if you are passionate about something, then you probably know how to satisfy a craving for that passion. Here is some climbing porn from the last month of climbing in the Southeast and Midwest.

Two things about this one. First, there was legendary celebrity turnout one cold day at Little Rock City; it was also one of the coldest days in recent memory. The list included Tyler and Jeff Landman, Jason Kehl, Abbey Smith, James Litz, and Dave Chancellor to name a few. Quite the possey, unfortunately there were few climbers of regular strength to witness the domination that day. Secondly, this picture is an example of how to warm up on really cold days if you get tired of jumping jacks or hiking. Climbing upside down is incredibly taxing, but a wonderfully fun challenge if you can manage to forget about trying to climb difficult climbs by standard opinion.

Tyler Landman's Typhoon at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Sadly an elimanate, but a spectacular climb. It saw the second, third, and fourth ascents from Jon Glassberg, Nate Draughn, and Jeremy Tyler Walton respectively.

Jason Powell obliterating the LRC boulders with only one collar bone.

Nate Draughn warming up like a real man in Fred's Cave, which is apparently at Horseshoe Canyon these days.

Jon G again on James Litz's Suck Creek testpiece: The Bosnian. This one is almost impossible unless you get the feet proper.

JTW on Reflections at LRC. Let it be known that he claims he will be able to do this v10 off the couch when he is 70. Maybe it will count as one of your ten problems for that leg of the Triple Crown in 2057.

2009-01-08T14:58:00.002-05:00

Diving in head-first, the last month and a half has been crazy. Four holidays came and went, if others count my birthday as that but it's another day of the week even to me. I went from Memphis to Chattanooga to Lexington to Memphis to Chattanooga to Memphis to Fayetteville and hopefully I stay put for long enough not to live out of the trunk of my Camry. I've run into old friends and explored with new ones. By the way, making new friends equals la buona vita. So it's Fayetteville for a while and it comes with old baggage, "if you will," most of which one doesn't mind carrying. Reminiscing is certainly a past time of mine, so the college alma mater should do well.

The sole purpose of coming to Arkansas is to climb rocks. Others might argue for attending college or visiting a national river, but it's really rock climbing. A four, sometimes, gentlemanly squad has made the trip. Two will leave for school in several days and the other is putting his hopes and dreams over the next several months into securing his legendary status as a rock/gym climber in the state, as well as possibly the first Wal-mart door greeter under the age of 60 with a three digit IQ. Over the last two days these three have done some serious rock climbing in record fashion; hopefully there is much more to come before the school boys leave. The next post will be photos of said recent and complete domination. (Side note: it takes a committed individual to begin a road trip with less than a Franklin in the pocket, i know several with such levels of commitment.) As for me, I'm considering quitting rock climbing and taking up golf professionally. Others have paved this way and I believe it will be more lucrative than selling shoes or chasing rocks around the world.

Currently, it is crisp and sunny in Fayetteville. It is a Thursday afternoon and a rest day which means one thing, we're preparing mentally and physically to drink drinks and holler holler holler tonight at Grubs. Should be interesting since one of us isn't old enough to do the former and half of us are broke, eliminating all plans for the night.

More Akansas Bouldering

2008-11-28T22:35:00.010-05:00

Now that Thanksgiving and Black Friday are almost done; I am officially getting fat. Visiting my family and where I grew up in Memphis is great, but my motivation tends to plummet whenever I return home. The good news is that I'm leaving Monday morning for Chattanooga for a three week visit. I'll get to see an old friend and compete in the third leg of the Triple Crown. Definitely won't win, but it should be fun.

So on the note of visiting places, Arkansas was pleasent as was hoped. I climbed a total of seven out of the eight days I was there with six consecutively at the end. On Saturday, Jason, Ariel, Pierre, and I went to the Ranch. Good times as always. Once again, Ariel came close to sending Dig Dug and almost pulled off the second ascent of a new problem I established that day called B2SB approximately v4. I also established a line next to it called Forgotten But Not Lost. Both climb a blank face on several features to a nice topout.

On Sunday, Cole Fennel, Jason Haas, Brian Stuenkel, Dan Hickstein, Rob, and I went to Invasion. I had the chance to visit for the first time in the heat of this past summer and was astounded by the quality and quantity of boulders and routes. Unfortunately, this time it was bone-chilling cold and I was the only one to send something cleanly. I managed a boulder problem left of the Invasion Wall called Electraraillica. It was a nice mid-grade roof send as a consolation to not sending Her Majesty, which has some extremely tough tension movement. As any trip in that area should, the night finished at Ozark Cafe. Such good food after you've been abusing your body all day.
After a good night's sleep at Chad and Rhonda Watkin's House, everyone returned to Ozark Cafe to get Monday started off right. Sam's Throne was on the agenda for the day, and I was excited since I had never been. The place was amazing! I couldn't believe all the routes, the quality of the stone, the features, and the colors. Everyone more than atoned for thier Sunday performances, climbing route after route on gear. I attempted my first gear route and almost flashed. Too bad I don't really know how to use a crack. However, I did establish three more mid-grade boulder problems in an area called the Patio Boulders. The easiest of the three, Porch Monkey, is by itself, and climbs a face to a prow at ten feet. The next two are on the same wall. How Much is the easier of these two and comes in around v6. It begins on double underclings with a right dropknee above your head. You stab up and right to a rail, make a left hand move to a crimp and mantle. A good problem and possibly done, but Clay Frisbee's current Arkansas guidebook says nothing of it. Four feet to the left of that is a seem for a right hand with thin fingers and a left hand mono stack pinch. Fighting Mentality is around v9 and begins on these holds, stabs for a two finger bucket at the lip, and mantles the lip. This climb is probably unclimbed, but again Arkansas Rock makes no mention of this. The good news is that Cole Fennel is publishing a new guidebook for Arkansas through Jason Haas's company Fixed Pin. IT should be of the highest quality and clear up some gray area in the state as far as climbing is concerned.

Tuesday, I went to Area 74 with Pierre and Rob. I had planned on taking pictures the whole day, but after a running dyno session I had to put on the boots. Everyone climbed well with both Rob and Pierre coming fairly close to sending Ripple Effect and Poppa Dickey. Rob coached me through my first running dyno and I tried to teach him how to mentally complete a climb when you can physically do it. Turns out that Rob is a better teacher/cheerleader. Enjoy the pics.

Mark Twight: Kiss or Kill

2008-11-25T00:20:00.004-05:00

Last Thursday I departed for a week-long (not to be confused with the "furlong") visit to my parents house in Newark, Delaware or NeDe I suppose it would be called if anyone here had any pride for their place. Prior to my flight my buddy Rob lent me his copy of Mark Twights Kiss or Kill. I knew very little about Mark Twight and held no preconceptions. By the time I was descending into Philadelphia I had finished half of the book. This auto-biography is a unique collection of old and sometimes re-written passages that recounts the most influential climbs of Mark Twight's career.
Twight lead a rather runout lifestyle cutting away from him anyone or anything that got to close and/or prevented him from concentrating on climbing. He was able to disolve relationships faster than snow melts when held under warm rushing water. His passion, or more appropriatly, his obsession for the craggy peaks of the Alps or the illusive summits of the Himalayas smothered the first half if not three-quarters of Kiss or Kill. His journal entries are obsessive, filled with emotion, and at first-thought seem to balance pracariously on the ridge of self-masochism and suicide. However, at a little over half way through the book, there is a subtle change in his writing. Mark's most profound changes occur in his climbing style and his personal life. Ironically, he seems to lighten up a bit. The reader is left to decide whether it is indeed a true change in Twights soul or simply just him giving into the majority. A majority who practice a form of alpinism which Mark claims is lightened by technology and a lack of ethics. Either way you sway, if you are a climber, a boulderer, or an alpinist, his stories are highly inspirational and also get the reader to asses the past, present, and future of their sport.

Tonto and the Lone Ranger

2008-11-21T23:03:00.003-05:00

Well, life without my sons has been tough. I enough spending time with my other half in Arkansas, but not too many people act like my sons. They can be overly crude sometimes, but they keep me on my toes and young. Good news is that Rob and I should be climbing together all weekend in the AR. I have never really climbed with him in Arkansas, so it should be a great time. As for my other son, he is preparing to dominate a climbing competition over the Thanksgiving break in Delaware. Maybe there will be good news from that end as well.

So, since I've arrived in Arkansas, all my successful climbing has come on solo missions. I climbed Thursday with a bunch of friends, and was able to take some pictures, but didn't really get anything accomplished as far as climbing is concerned. Ariel Smith and Lauren Anders both managed to complete The Fin at Area 74. Both had been working hard on the problem and benefited from the temps and getting to work the problem with another girl of similar size. Needless to say, we were all excited for them. At the end of the day I tried one of the many projects I brushed while I was out with a finger injury last spring. I thought the project would be in the 10-12 range, but I have a tendency to overlook feet. Unfortunately, this particular project is completely out of my league, but the good news is that it is definitely possible.

Today, I paid the Goat Farm a visit. Though it doesn't have many climbs, it is a wonderful place to visit on a cold afternoon as it is south facing and the Goat Farm is only 12 miles from the University of Arkansas. The Goat Farm holds two note-worthy boulder problems: The Butcher and Crimpit's Tea Room. Both climb crimps on a 15 degree overhanging face and are of extremely high quality. Within 15 minutes the Butcher was completed and I had moved down the wall to Crimpit's. Crimpit's was first climbed by Blake Strickland around Thanksgiving in 2003. Since then, it has only seen two other ascents to my knowledge, so I was quite pleased to be siting on top of the rock after another 45 minutes of effort. It is an amazing feeling to complete climbs that you have always dreamed of doing, and to have been doing them at will since arriving in Arkansas is empowering. Well, tomorrow Jason, Pierre, Ariel, I and others will hopefully meet up with Rob for some climbing at Horseshoe Canyon. 'Til next time.

Lauren on The Fin

Hansel is a wonderful moderate on the right end on the Crimpit's wall.

The Butcher is a two move dyno on the far left of the wall, and Crimpit's climbs between the orange streaks in the foreground.

IF YOU DONT GIVE A DAMN WE DONT GIVE A FUCK: LIFE WITHOUT JAVID

2008-11-19T20:00:00.001-05:00

"You can't be picky in a bad economy"

2008-11-19T00:20:00.002-05:00

Sunday evening was a sad time in Colorado for me, but exciting to be starting the journey. Sunday was spent climbing in Clear Creek with the closest person person to me, second only to Jason. It was a good climbing and better company. That evening, goodbyes were said and ways were parted for the time being. It's sad to put things on hold, but hopefully all the members of my family will have open arms whenever I return. I left at one in the morning and arrived seventeen hours later after two naps and several stops for pictures. I still don't have a usb cord, so no pictures but that will come eventually.
Today was spent at Area 74 cleaning and climbing projects. Hopefully two of the projects that were cleaned for the third time today in the past year will be climbable when I return on Thursday. Another several projects were considered but were determined to be impossibly hard for two days of effort this week. I did, however, manage to make the likely third ascent of Ryan Sewell's Oracle. This is an amazing problem on the main wall, which climbs an blank overhanging face on a pinch, sloper, and terrible crimps with a slight dyno at the end. Unfortunately, like most of the climbs on the main wall, it drops off at a jug after the dyno, but still a spectacular climb. Jason is always asking if I am going to try this climb of if I will attempt it. I don't know why, but he is enamored with this climb. Well, without is enthusiasm I wouldn't have tried it today. The old Bad Girls project was sent. This too is an unbelievable climb. It traverse right to left on a completely vertical face utilizing right hand bumps on small crimps and a hig left heel-hook. The finish is either a dyno or a climb. I saved the dyno for Jason's wishes and did the climb portion, which now goes by The House of Magic for a local gym owner. This man's gym is affectionately referred to as the climb's name, because he sets the hardest traverses and effectively teaches levitation. Anyway, a great climb and maybe both are soft for the grade of V11, but it will be difficult to say since Jason is probably one of the only other people psyched and strong enough to climb something that difficult, and he only has one good clavical.
Well, tomorrow it is off to the Goat Farm for two rarely sent problems with Pierre.

David

Food Poisoning is Not the Waddage

2008-11-11T03:57:00.002-05:00

So, exactly that, the only thing that might be worse than food poisoning are paper cuts from cardboard, and that's only because their intensity is shorter lived. I managed to cook a meal the night before yesterday for a special someone and Youngmoney. Well, turns out I was the only one to get sick, which is fine, but the soup came out all wrong from the beginning. Wrong consistency, missing ingredients, but at least it had love. Starting yesterday around 4 in the a.m., I could not sleep and couldn't keep anything inside me. Simply terrible. I spent the whole day by myself trying to sleep and trying to work on a portfolio, but no such luck on either.

Last night, I decided to give up early and go to bed. The one person I wanted to see could not be found, but such is life. To quote Jason, "they can't do it like you," sums up why I wanted that help above all the others. So, another sleepless night, which is why this post has such a crazy timestamp. It was one of those where you think you are sleeping and surely it must be almost daybreak, but in actuality it's 1:45 and the eternity you spent in the half and half land was only 3 hours. If this is what hell is like, I hope I'm not damned with such a fate.

On a brighter note, Youngmoney, Mr. Delaware, a fellow named Jordan, two girls (one of which is the special one), myself, and probably some other unknown gentlemen are going to the desert this weekend for a little climbing. I've always thought if you can't like trad climbing in Indian Creek, then you can't like it. We'll see if that holds true. Also, if everything goes well, I should have a new camera by then, and hopefully Mr. Delaware will give me some tutorials on howda use dat new camera.

Goodnight moon.

Every New Beginning Comes from Some Other Beginning's End

2008-11-03T12:25:00.005-05:00

I am going to start off by saying that the last post is what it is. No apologies, but that could very well be a typical post from Rob. Jason thought it would be a good idea to have several people administrate this blog and give others the opportunity to share their lives as guest authors in the starting lineup. Should be a refreshing mix of stories and styles.

As Rob said, yesterday he, Greg, and I went to Eldo for "church." They went for the more appropriate reason (trad climbing) and I for bouldering. The purpose of the trip was exploration on my part and for the boys to get and take photos for Steve Lavin's upcoming Eldorado Canyon guide Book. Should be a good one, but only if the boys make the front cover. Also, as Rob said, "church" lasted a long time yesterday which gave me time call the parental units, have my phone die, and get up a roadside piece of rock known as the Milton Boulder. Fairly classic boulder I suppose, but I certainly got on better problems earlier in the day (Elegant Universe, Lost, and Blade Runner). In a half hour I had gone from considering doing a climb to standing on top of the rock listening to hikers cheer for what they had just witnessed. Never Say Never was the climb. I'm not sure, but I don't think it has been climbed by many people but that's mostly because the boulders come from the walls, so why not climb hundreds of feet instead of fifteen. Cool problem at the end of it all, and exciting to have done it.

Today marks the last week that I will be a shoe salesman at Clarks (clarksusa.com). The past two and a half months have had their highs and lows, and I will miss the job. Not so much the sixty hours a week and only getting paid for forty of it, but the people who come through the door. Clarks made me realize that I love making people happy, not as a people pleaser but through random acts of kindness, sincerity, and a smile on my face. Learning to serve others in a selfless fashion is completely humbling and rewarding without parallel. The job was just that, a job, and I'm looking for something a little more fulfilling. So this last week of work marks a new beginning and the end of another. In a few weeks I will leave Boulder for a climbing trip until the summer comes or my funds get to a predetermined limit. I have never taken a journey like this, so it should be a wonderful exploration of countryside and self. Hopefully I can post words and pictures along the way. Arrevederci.

skimp tities

2008-11-03T01:06:00.003-05:00

Dem tits are skimp. Mah gran'mamy don told mah dat if yo ass don't catch da firs bus deres always anotha one. Mah pops tol' mah dat you gosta test drive da whip befo' you cop it. Flagscrap is aight, but Eldo is like tits on glass, DYNAMITE. Curmudgeon went down yesterday, javid sandbagged me with some wrong beta, but once i got the proper shit down it went real quick. bouldering is the shit, i miss bouldering quite a bit. sometimes i axe myself why don't i boulder more often, but then i realize that i like climbing more that 8 feet. Church was in session today at eldo, we were about 5 minutes late, but thats alright we had to get breakfast. The congregation was still opening with the introductory song: (Praise to the god in the highest). So we roll in the parking lot and my main damie, da choir boi, Jason scoops us with his craghound and we embark to get reall religious on some climbing. Blowin past boties on the approach, we needed jesus to forgive us of our sins. After being forgivin fo' our trespasses, we start on some stemming shit to a tips crack, continue to another dihedral with some stemming then holler at some Land of Ra. Ra was a saint who died in a car crash a few years back, true story. You know some bodies only stay in church for an hour, but my family likes to stay all day, you know bible study, shoot the shit with the priest, confession, baptizisms, yea dats spelt right, confirmations, choir practice. Climbing is not just a sport or a lifestyle but a religion.

holla

Starting is Always the Hardest

2008-10-29T12:00:00.008-04:00

For the past week in Arkansas the conditions have been getting really good. Temperatures have been around a high of 60 and a low of 25. It seems as though the season is coming a lot faster this year than in years past, but still the best temps are a ways away.

Several weeks ago my brother and I adventured out to Invasion to see what it was about. The Invasion is a very majestic place with quite a few routes, all of high quality, and many undeveloped boulders. After less than 30 minutes of hiking we came across a beautiful boulder with a line from left to right on a rail system. After talking to several locals we found out that the boulder had not been sent, but was known as Her Majesty and thought to go at V10. The boulder is quite amazing and I can't wait to give it some efforts.

Her Majesty